Are my brakes knackered!

[Burnerman]

Ye gods.....a nightmare!
Usually you can shift locking wheel nuts with a device that cuts into the flank of the nut.....I’ve some Irwin ones, used twice successfully.
For sure, these laser cut locking devices are well clever but you mustn’t be in a hurry when using them.
John

 

[johnny2007]

Use copper grease on the bolts and NEVER let anyone torque them with an impact wrench.
I always ask: what if you have a puncture???

 

[Keithmac]

The disk pushes the pads back (front calipers).

The same at the back when handbrake is released (as long as the handbrake mechanism isn't seized).

There will be no noticeable gap between pad and disk, if there was most of your brake pedal travel would be just taking the gap up..

 

[Mottie]

Use copper grease on the bolts

Noooooo! Look in a data book for the torque settings for a wheel nut/bolt. It will give you a figure often with a little number or symbol next to it. Look in the index to see what the number/symbol means. It will state 'Dry threads only' or 'Do not lubricate threads’. The torque settings are based on dry nuts or studs. By all means, especially with alloy wheels, you can put some copper grease between the wheel and the hub to stop it sticking but never on the threads. Honest!

 

[Burnerman]

Its distortion of the fluid seal in the caliper that ever so slightly draws the pads from the disc.....or at least allows the piston to do so!
John

 

[johnny2007]

Noooooo! Look in a data book for the torque settings for a wheel nut/bolt. It will give you a figure often with a little number or symbol next to it. Look in the index to see what the number/symbol means. It will state 'Dry threads only' or 'Do not lubricate threads’. The torque settings are based on dry nuts or studs. By all means, especially with alloy wheels, you can put some copper grease between the wheel and the hub to stop it sticking but never on the threads. Honest!

I know what you mean, but the mechanics of lost days did this on their own cars and never had a problem.
The massive problem comes when the bolts are over tightened and stretched.
At that point they need replacing.
In other words, half of the vehicles on the road should have their wheel bolts replaced.
Trust me, a little copper grease will prevent the bolts seizing.
And no bolt will ever come off at 120/140Nm torque.

 

[jj4091]

Thought id do an update.
I took it to a tyre/exhaust place for a quote as I needed to get it over with. After and hour and twenty walking around they called and said the locking wheel key wont work on one of the wheels. So I took it to another big tyre place. After an hour and fifty mins walking round I called them and discovered they had written my number down wrong and they'd been calling for a while and they couldnt get three wheels off. So I went in to the VW franchise next door as advised and they dont keep the particular locking key so want £125 to get wheels off and replace locking nuts or £75 for normal ones. So I got home about half past 3.
Ive had a ring around and it looks like £75 is as cheap as it gets to get wheels off. Then ive still got to get the brakes fixed.

Maybe I tightened the nuts too tight but it seems to have got worse at the first garage.

I had this problem on my Rover because the key had worn slightly & kept slipping off when under torque, perhaps you just need a new key 2008 vw passat locking wheel nut key

 

[davidmiller]

Hello people thanks for your help. I didnt get notified of the last page or so and I reckon the link to ebay link was the right one but it was probably right to get on with it as I have a 5 yr old who lives 50 miles away and cant be without a car for long.
So I took it to a garage to get the nuts off and look at the brakes. They called and said the pads were ok but there was a problem with the loom. I had a choice to either putting up with it as they're not concerned about it or paying £45 for them to get rid of the light with the scanner. I said id rather spend the money on a fluid change.
By the way Theres lots of videos on youtube showing how to get locking nuts off. You basically hammer a slightly smaller socket over it then wrench it off. My wheels have very little clearance around the nut and all my sockets were too fat and the nuts are recessed further in than most but I reckon I could have got there in the end