Are the Current Consumer Units that I have ok?

[mdbalson]

Our advice is to consolidate both CU's into one new one, either a split-load one suited to your supply type, or a 100A incomer with RCBO's for all necessary sockets. As John pointed out, RCBO option is far superior, but most cannot justify the cost.

I Know that it would be best to consolidate both ccu into one new one, but the space in the cupboard is limited, so it would be easyer to keep the newer RCD ccu which is for the Kitchen and the Shed(Shed=32 Amp,Cooker=32 Amp, Kitchen Ring 1=32Amp, Kitchen Ring 2=32 Amp), and change the older ccu with a Crabtree Starbreaker 10 way split- load ccu, and have it set up like this:

Non-RCD Side

Upstairs Lights (6 Amp)

Downstairs Lights (6 Amp)

Smoke Alarms (6 Amp) (I will be put these in soon, 1 in the Kitchen= A Heat one, 1 on the Landing= A Smoke one, and 1 in the Loft= A Heat one- As the Boiler is up in the Loft)

Waterproof Double RCD Outside Socket (16 Amp)

One Spare Way


RCD Side

Upstairs Sockets (32 Amp)

Downstairs Sockets (32 Amp)

Three Spare Ways


And

Do Power Showers have to have their own circuit

And what side of a split- load ccu do they go on

 

[JohnD]

Do Power Showers have to have their own circuit

And what side of a split- load CU do they go on


Assuming you mean an electric Power Pump that squirts out water that has been heated by your boiler and comes from the hot-water cylinder, they don't need a dedicated circuit, just an FCU.

As they combine water and electricity, they should be on the RCD protected side.

If you're buying a new CU, consider getting a MEM 2000 AD type. Although not particularly cheap, it is a good one, and has the great advantage that you can convert it to or from split load by cutting the busbar, and when you can afford it, fitting RCBOs to replace the existing MCBs. As the Busbar can be cut and reconfigured, you change the split from (say) 1-9 to 2-8, 3-7, 4-6, 5-5, 10-0, 0-10 very easily (given the correct skills). The Crabtree Starbreaker is also a good one, but does not have this flexibility.

 

[mdbalson]

Do Power Showers have to have their own circuit

And what side of a split- load CU do they go on


Assuming you mean an electric Power Pump that squirts out water that has been heated by your boiler and comes from the hot-water cylinder, they don't need a dedicated circuit, just an FCU.

As they combine water and electricity, they should be on the RCD protected side.

If you're buying a new CU, consider getting a MEM 2000 AD type. Although not particularly cheap, it is a good one, and has the great advantage that you can convert it to or from split load by cutting the busbar, and when you can afford it, fitting RCBOs to replace the existing MCBs. As the Busbar can be cut and reconfigured, you change the split from (say) 1-9 to 2-8, 3-7, 4-6, 5-5, 10-0, 0-10 very easily (given the correct skills). The Crabtree Starbreaker is also a good one, but does not have this flexibility.

I was going to get a 10 way, split load, Crabtree Starbreaker ccu, because it will fit ok in the space where the old ccu is at the moment, I can get one which comes with 10 MCBs for £60, and I am used to working with the Crabtree Starbreaker ccu as it is what they have in the bays, in the workshop at collage.

 

[mdbalson]

Our advice is to consolidate both CU's into one new one, either a split-load one suited to your supply type, or a 100A incomer with RCBO's for all necessary sockets. As John pointed out, RCBO option is far superior, but most cannot justify the cost.

I Know that it would be best to consolidate both ccu into one new one, but the space in the cupboard is limited, and it would also mean removing the two MK Service Connector Blocks and Replacing the Meter Tails, so it would be easyer to keep the newer RCD ccu which is for the Kitchen and the Shed(Shed=32 Amp,Cooker=32 Amp, Kitchen Ring 1=32Amp, Kitchen Ring 2=32 Amp), and change the older ccu with a Crabtree Starbreaker 10 way split- load ccu, and have it set up like this:

Non-RCD Side

Upstairs Lights and Loft Light (6 Amp)

Downstairs Lights and 6 Outside Lights (6 Amp)

Smoke Alarms (6 Amp) (I will be put these in soon, 1 in the Kitchen= A Heat one, 1 on the Landing= A Smoke one, and 1 in the Loft= A Heat one- As the Boiler is up in the Loft)

Waterproof Double RCD Outside Socket, 3 Double Sockets in the Loft (For Network Patch Cabnet and Server) and one Double Socket in Upstairs Back Bedroom Wardrobe (For TV) (16 Amp)

One Spare Way


RCD Side

Upstairs Sockets, Power Shower (Pump, Running from FCU), and 1 double socket in hall (Running from FCU) (32 Amp)

Downstairs Sockets (32 Amp)

Three Spare Ways


And

Power Showers (Pumps), what size fuse should go in the FCU that supplies them

 

[securespark]

very easily (given the correct skills)

Aren't most things very easy, given the correct skills?

 

[mdbalson]

Your installation has no single point of disconnection, which you might want to address, as the regs require this.

By a Single point of disconnection, do you mean to put in a DP Isolator switch to isolate both CUs. By putting the DP Isolator switch between the Meter and the two MK Service Connector Blocks, and would it need to be mounted on a block of wood, like the Service Head, Meter and the MK Service Connector Blocks, are mounted on.

And where can you buy DP Isolator Switches from

 

[kai]

All a DP isolator is a standard main switch, mounted in a two slot din-rail box, to which the tails are routed through, to offer one main isolator for the whole property.

You can buy them in B&Q etc. Mount it on a square of thick plywood.

 

[mdbalson]

All a DP isolator is a standard main switch, mounted in a two slot din-rail box, to which the tails are routed through, to offer one main isolator for the whole property.

You can buy them in B&Q etc. Mount it on a square of thick plywood.

Would the Isolator be put between the Meter and the Live & Neutral Service Connector Blocks.

 

[JohnD]

And where can you buy DP Isolator Switches from

Put your email address in your profile

 

[mdbalson]

Would these be all right to be used as a DP Isolator Switch

Two way Insulated Din rail Enclosure:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK5502.html


100Amp Main Switch:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MK5500.html



And what size tails should I use

 

[JohnD]

Yes, fine, almost as good as the MEM one

Usually 25mm.

 

[mdbalson]

So it will be Ok to use this.

 

[mdbalson]

So this type of isolator will be ok to use

 

[bernardgreen]

Non-RCD Side

Upstairs Lights and Loft Light (6 Amp)

Downstairs Lights and 6 Outside Lights (6 Amp

Although it means running an extra cable to the loft having the Loft light on the downstairs light circuit does mean that there is (almost) always a working light by the loft hatch.

Pernickity maybe but breaking the bulb in the loft and not being able to find the hatch because the lights all went out isn't fun.

 

[Pensdown]

Non-RCD Side

Upstairs Lights and Loft Light (6 Amp)

Downstairs Lights and 6 Outside Lights (6 Amp

Although it means running an extra cable to the loft having the Loft light on the downstairs light circuit does mean that there is (almost) always a working light by the loft hatch.

Pernickity maybe but breaking the bulb in the loft and not being able to find the hatch because the lights all went out isn't fun.

Another reason is if you're in the loft working on the upstairs lighting circuit the loft light still works