- Joined
- 11 Jan 2004
- Messages
- 42,741
- Reaction score
- 2,634
- Country
What, that tiddler?
Hang on while I find a great white....
Hang on while I find a great white....
Are the Current Consumer Units that I have ok?
- Thread starter mdbalson
- Start date
Sponsored Links
As the space in the cupboard is limited, I am going to keep the newer RCD CCU which is for the Kitchen.
The circuits on the RCD CCU are: Cooker=32 Amp, Kitchen Ring 1=32Amp, Kitchen Ring 2=32 Amp
And I am going change the older CCU with a Wylex NHRS Metalclad 9 way split- load ccu, and have it set up like this:
Non-RCD Side
1) Upstairs Lights and Loft Light (6 Amp MCB)
2) Downstairs Lights and 5 Outside Lights (6 Amp MCB)
3) Smoke Alarms (6 Amp MCB) (I will be put these in soon, 1 in the Kitchen= A Heat one, 1 on the Landing= A Smoke one, and 1 in the Loft= A Heat one- As the Boiler is up in the Loft)
4) Shed (32 Amp MCB)
5) Loft Sockets (2 Double Sockets, For Network Patch Cabinet and Server) and one Double Socket in Upstairs Back Bedroom Wardrobe (For TV) (16 Amp MCB)
6) CH & Immersion Heater (16 Amp MCB 0R 20 Amp MCB )
RCD Side
1) Upstairs Sockets, Power Shower (Pump, Running from FCU), and 1 double socket in hall (Running from FCU) (32 Amp)
2) Downstairs Sockets (32 Amp)
3) Spare Way
I am going to use a Metalclad CCU now, because it means I can terminate the 3 core 6mm SWA (for the Shed), & the 4 core 2.5mm SWA (for the Loft Sockets & the CH & Immersion Heater circuits) straight into the CCU.
The circuits on the RCD CCU are: Cooker=32 Amp, Kitchen Ring 1=32Amp, Kitchen Ring 2=32 Amp
And I am going change the older CCU with a Wylex NHRS Metalclad 9 way split- load ccu, and have it set up like this:
Non-RCD Side
1) Upstairs Lights and Loft Light (6 Amp MCB)
2) Downstairs Lights and 5 Outside Lights (6 Amp MCB)
3) Smoke Alarms (6 Amp MCB) (I will be put these in soon, 1 in the Kitchen= A Heat one, 1 on the Landing= A Smoke one, and 1 in the Loft= A Heat one- As the Boiler is up in the Loft)
4) Shed (32 Amp MCB)
5) Loft Sockets (2 Double Sockets, For Network Patch Cabinet and Server) and one Double Socket in Upstairs Back Bedroom Wardrobe (For TV) (16 Amp MCB)
6) CH & Immersion Heater (16 Amp MCB
0R 20 Amp MCB )RCD Side
1) Upstairs Sockets, Power Shower (Pump, Running from FCU), and 1 double socket in hall (Running from FCU) (32 Amp)
2) Downstairs Sockets (32 Amp)
3) Spare Way
I am going to use a Metalclad CCU now, because it means I can terminate the 3 core 6mm SWA (for the Shed), & the 4 core 2.5mm SWA (for the Loft Sockets & the CH & Immersion Heater circuits) straight into the CCU.
mdbalson said:
Why are you using 4 core 2.5 SWA?
Sponsored Links
how are you going to connect the earth armour to a terminal in a JB to continue the earth path?
mdbalson said:
Messy bloody messy
Not having a go at you, but you're not ready for the jobs you're taking on.
Designing a run using 4-core up the outside of a building is a bit rough.
That's not what 4-core is designed for. There is no excuse for not doing the job properly, especially not because it's hard to do.
You've posted lots of photos of your work and some of this would need need tidying up. Most looks fine, but if you want paying for the job you should aim to do it right
Just want to add some thoughts here.
What you are planning is so unusual, I'm not even sure which regs would apply. You are in effect using SWA as conduit for 2 circuits. You plan to feed a 32A ring, plus the 16A IH circuit and then use the SWA to earth both. First off, you'll run 48A through these circuits and the SWA for a single 48A circuit is 10 mill (but you've got 2 circuits so there is a thermal effect which the regs don't cover - there are no factors for your design).
Is there no way you can run the cables inside your house?
Designing a run using 4-core up the outside of a building is a bit rough.
That's not what 4-core is designed for. There is no excuse for not doing the job properly, especially not because it's hard to do.
You've posted lots of photos of your work and some of this would need need tidying up. Most looks fine, but if you want paying for the job you should aim to do it right
Just want to add some thoughts here.
What you are planning is so unusual, I'm not even sure which regs would apply. You are in effect using SWA as conduit for 2 circuits. You plan to feed a 32A ring, plus the 16A IH circuit and then use the SWA to earth both. First off, you'll run 48A through these circuits and the SWA for a single 48A circuit is 10 mill (but you've got 2 circuits so there is a thermal effect which the regs don't cover - there are no factors for your design).
Is there no way you can run the cables inside your house?
I've added comments above
newspark_paul said:
I was going to use SWA cable, as you are not meant to use PVC T+E outside.
newspark_paul said:
The loft sockets are going to be a 16A radial, feeding three double sockets.
I could run 2 pieces of 2.5mm 3 core SWA up the outside of the house instead.
newspark_paul said:
To run the cables inside the house means damaging the paper in two newly papered rooms, (The Dining Room & the Back Side Bedroom) to go from the CCU Cupboard in the Kitchen to the Loft. It cannot go up the kitchen wall into the Back Side Bedroom & into the Loft, as the Kitchen is in a Single Storey extension.
Also where I was going to run the SWA up the outside of the house is the easiet route for the cable, as it means only having to dill 2 holes in the wall. And also the SWA will not be seen that much, as that part of the outside of the house can only be seen from the very top of the garden, which is the veg patch.
You can use plastic conduit externally and this may look better than a run of SWA (especially if you use black conduit). Don't glue both ends of any couplers as the conduit will twist if it cannot move with weather changes.
Added thought
If the run is in a place where it is unlikely to be damaged by flora or fauna you can just run T&E up the wall. It's up to you as the designer/installer to decide. Look at the different cables available.
Added thought
If the run is in a place where it is unlikely to be damaged by flora or fauna you can just run T&E up the wall. It's up to you as the designer/installer to decide. Look at the different cables available.
I am now going to is replace the old 6 Way MEM CCU, with a 11 Way Metalclad Wylex CCU with a 100A DP Mains Switch.
This is the 11 Way Metalclad Wylex CCU with a 100A DP Mains Switch, which I am going to get:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=A331831&ts=07590&id=91819
I will then for now move the 4 Way CCU with a RCD Mains Switch to the space under the New Wylex CCU, and then in a few months time replace the old 4 Way RCD CCU, with a 5 Way Wylex CCU with a 100A 30mA RCD Mains Switch.
This is the 5 Way Metalclad Wylex CCU with a 100A 30mA RCD Mains Switch, which I am going to get:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WYNHRS506.html
I will mount both CCUs onto a piece of plywood.
I will then have a DP Isolator Switch fitted where the RCD CCU was.
On the 11 Way Wylex CCU will be:
1) Smoke Alarms (6 Amp MCB)
2) Upstairs Lights (6 Amp MCB)
3) Downstairs Lights (6 Amp MCB)
4) Lounge Wall Lights (6 Amp MCB)
5) Kitchen, Bathroom & Back Outside Lights (6 Amp MCB)
6) Immersion Heater & CH (16 Amp MCB)
7) Comms Cabinet Power & 1 Double RCD socket in back bedroom wardrobe (For TV power) (16 Amp MCB)
8 ) Shed Power (32 Amp MCB)
9) Cooker (32/40 Amp MCB)
10) Spare
11) Spare
On the RCD CCU will be:
1) Upstairs Sockets (32 Amp MCB)
2) Downstairs Sockets (32 Amp MCB)
3) Kitchen Sockets (Cooker Side) (32 Amp MCB)
4) Kitchen Sockets (Sink Side) (32 Amp MCB)
5) Spare
This is the 11 Way Metalclad Wylex CCU with a 100A DP Mains Switch, which I am going to get:
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=A331831&ts=07590&id=91819
I will then for now move the 4 Way CCU with a RCD Mains Switch to the space under the New Wylex CCU, and then in a few months time replace the old 4 Way RCD CCU, with a 5 Way Wylex CCU with a 100A 30mA RCD Mains Switch.
This is the 5 Way Metalclad Wylex CCU with a 100A 30mA RCD Mains Switch, which I am going to get:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/WYNHRS506.html
I will mount both CCUs onto a piece of plywood.
I will then have a DP Isolator Switch fitted where the RCD CCU was.
On the 11 Way Wylex CCU will be:
1) Smoke Alarms (6 Amp MCB)
2) Upstairs Lights (6 Amp MCB)
3) Downstairs Lights (6 Amp MCB)
4) Lounge Wall Lights (6 Amp MCB)
5) Kitchen, Bathroom & Back Outside Lights (6 Amp MCB)
6) Immersion Heater & CH (16 Amp MCB)
7) Comms Cabinet Power & 1 Double RCD socket in back bedroom wardrobe (For TV power) (16 Amp MCB)
8 ) Shed Power (32 Amp MCB)
9) Cooker (32/40 Amp MCB)
10) Spare
11) Spare
On the RCD CCU will be:
1) Upstairs Sockets (32 Amp MCB)
2) Downstairs Sockets (32 Amp MCB)
3) Kitchen Sockets (Cooker Side) (32 Amp MCB)
4) Kitchen Sockets (Sink Side) (32 Amp MCB)
5) Spare
MDB, as I posted earlier you are not ready for these jobs.
Knowing what circuits to install and which should be RCD protected is important, but so is the practical installation of the circuits.
Earlier in this thread you proposed using a starbreaker as that is what you use at college. I'm assuming you're on the 2330 course so you'll understand the theory behind circuit design. But, you need to tidy up your practical installation. I'm referring to your previous photos and your proposed method of installing your upstairs circuits now. As an electrician you should aim to leave no evidence you've been there, other than what's expected (switches, sockets, DB, etc.).
There will be times when you'll be asked to install using mini-trunking or conduit, but you're doing this job on your own house to practice your techniques so do it the proper way and get it right.
You're not the first electrician to find the practical bit hard, but if you don't get it right now you'll struggle to get work later. I'm not saying all your work is poor, but there are bits that should be tidied up.
Knowing what circuits to install and which should be RCD protected is important, but so is the practical installation of the circuits.
Earlier in this thread you proposed using a starbreaker as that is what you use at college. I'm assuming you're on the 2330 course so you'll understand the theory behind circuit design. But, you need to tidy up your practical installation. I'm referring to your previous photos and your proposed method of installing your upstairs circuits now. As an electrician you should aim to leave no evidence you've been there, other than what's expected (switches, sockets, DB, etc.).
There will be times when you'll be asked to install using mini-trunking or conduit, but you're doing this job on your own house to practice your techniques so do it the proper way and get it right.
You're not the first electrician to find the practical bit hard, but if you don't get it right now you'll struggle to get work later. I'm not saying all your work is poor, but there are bits that should be tidied up.
newspark_paul said:
I would not be able to use T+E up the wall, as there are going to be climbing plants on the wall. Also the cable will have to go under the soil for 1 meter or less, to go through the wall of the house & into the CCU Cupboard.
Here is a picture of the wiring in the old MEM CCU in the house:
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/mdbalson/DSC00009.jpg
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u125/mdbalson/DSC00009.jpg
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
