Are the Current Consumer Units that I have ok?

mdbalson said:
So this type of isolator will be ok to use :?:
yes a CU style main switch in a modular box is just fine, make sure you drill the holes to line up with the terminals though as you'll have a nightmare trying to bend 25mm in a box that size.
 
Sponsored Links
Pensdown said:
bernardgreen said:
Non-RCD Side

Upstairs Lights and Loft Light (6 Amp)

Downstairs Lights and 6 Outside Lights (6 Amp

Although it means running an extra cable to the loft having the Loft light on the downstairs light circuit does mean that there is (almost) always a working light by the loft hatch.

Pernickity maybe but breaking the bulb in the loft and not being able to find the hatch because the lights all went out isn't fun.

Another reason is if you're in the loft working on the upstairs lighting circuit the loft light still works

Yes it would be a good idea,but it would be too hard to do.

And also there isn't that much likelyhood of breaking the tube, as it is high up in the loft.
 
As the space in the cupboard is limited, I am going to keep the newer RCD ccu which is for the Kitchen and the Loft Sockets(3 Double Sockets in the Loft (For Network Patch Cabinet and Server) and one Double Socket in Upstairs Back Bedroom Wardrobe (For TV)=16 Amp, Cooker=32 Amp, Kitchen Ring 1=32Amp, Kitchen Ring 2=32 Amp), and change the older ccu with a Wylex NHRS 9 way split- load ccu, and have it set up like this:

Non-RCD Side

Upstairs Lights and Loft Light (6 Amp)

Downstairs Lights and 6 Outside Lights (6 Amp)

Smoke Alarms (6 Amp) (I will be put these in soon, 1 in the Kitchen= A Heat one, 1 on the Landing= A Smoke one, and 1 in the Loft= A Heat one- As the Boiler is up in the Loft)

Shed (32 Amp)

One Spare Way


RCD Side

Upstairs Sockets, Power Shower (Pump, Running from FCU), and 1 double socket in hall (Running from FCU) (32 Amp)

Downstairs Sockets (32 Amp)

Two Spare Ways


[/u]
 
Sponsored Links
I would be tempted to put the loft sockets on the non-RCD side of the board, unless you want your network stuff going down when the RCD pings off.

You could label them as not protected by RCD, but I can't see anyone using them to feed equipment outdoors...
 
securespark said:
I would be tempted to put the loft sockets on the non-RCD side of the board, unless you want your network stuff going down when the RCD pings off.

You could label them as not protected by RCD, but I can't see anyone using them to feed equipment outdoors...

So would it be ok to put the Loft Sockets on the non-RCD side of the board, as the circuit also powers one double socket in the back bedroom (in the wardrobe, for the TV), and one double socket in the main bedroom.
 
comms said:
Screw fix do a 9way splitload board loaded with mcb's
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=A331831&ts=64672&id=94258

Or

go to B&Q they are currently doing a 12way splitloaded wylex board fully loaded with mcb's for £69.00

I havent read all the posts so this may not be what your wanting.


That is the same as the one I am going to get, but from TLC Direct, it is cheaper.

From TLC Direct, it is £65.39 inc VAT, for the 9way splitload board, three 32A Type B MCBs, & three 6A Type B MCBs.
 
What side of a Split load board should a cooker go on :?:

What type of cable is used for interconnecting main powered smoke alarms :?:
 
What side of a Split load board should a cooker go on :?:

What type of cable is used for interconnecting main powered smoke alarms :?: Is it 3 core & Earth that is used :?:
 
mdbalson said:
What side of a Split load board should a cooker go on :?:

What type of cable is used for interconnecting main powered smoke alarms :?: Is it 3 core & Earth that is used :?:

What I do is put the cooker on the RCD side only if it has a socket on the plate, otherwise not.

Have you read the instructions for the smokes, or phoned the manufacturer?
 
securespark said:
I would be tempted to put the loft sockets on the non-RCD side of the board, unless you want your network stuff going down when the RCD pings off.

You could label them as not protected by RCD, but I can't see anyone using them to feed equipment outdoors...

So would it be ok to put the Loft Sockets on the non-RCD side of the board, as the circuit also powers one double socket in the back bedroom (in the wardrobe, for the TV), and one double socket in the main bedroom, or should I put in a double RCD socket in the two bedrooms.
 
It all depends on that very grey area of the regs which says something like

"Any socket outlet likely to supply eqipment for use outdoors must be protected by a 30mA RCD"

KEYWORD= "LIKELY"

How do you interpret that?

Personally, I put all s/o on an RCD, except freezers.
 
RCD protection for sockets is required when they can reasonably be expected to be used with equipment outside the house, for example garden tools. This is especially likely with downstairs sockets. You are not required to protect sockets that will only be used for indoor equipment.

You could not reasonably expect that someone will plug a long extension lead in at the loft to operate a lawn mower, when there are numerous other sockets readily available in the house.

It is generally considered wise, but not currently a requirement, to RCD-protect circuits that are used with water in the bathroom, for example electric showers.

It is widely considered inadvisable to put fixed cookers and immersion heaters on an RCD, because they are prone to earth leakage and nuisance trips. They are OK on RCBOs because a trip will not cause a nuisance on any other circuit. Provided the cooker switch does not incorporate a socket :evil: as there is little chance of the cooker itself being carried outdoors and used.

Although it is not currently a requiremnt, many people prefer to see kitchen and utility rooms protected by an RCD, even if they will not be used with equipment outdoors, because of the presence of water and appliances such as kettles and washing machines.

edited: This was a response to mdbalson, not arguing with securespark :D
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top