Ariston Genus B Plus 30 BFFI shutting down

[mattinker]

Hi,

before writing this, I did a search so that as not to ask the same question twice! I have a seven year old Ariston Genus B Plus 30 BFFI. I have always serviced it myself as I installed it, never had a makers guarantee but I'm two years past that! Today it shut down, quite dramatically, spraying water out of the pressure relief valve. I think I've diagnosed it, but I'd be very grateful for some input. If I press the start button with 2bars of pressure in it, the boiler lights, the fans run, but the pump doesn't run, the pressure relief valve (the 5 bar one without the bleed pipe) blows off and the top of the pipes are extremely hot and the bottom cold, the body motor was hot when I realised that the heating was off, but the pipes in and out were cold. I suspect the pump because, I get a reading of about 112ohms across the blue and the brown wires, but nothing between the blue and the black and the brown and black. I got a falling voltage reading across the condenser, not a very good test, but it would seem to be working. If my thinking is right, the blue is neutral and the brown and black are the two speeds, one of which would appear to be in open circuit. I'd be very interested in an opinions on this!

Regards, Matthew

 

[vicvapour]

Is there voltage to the pump? Is so what voltage are you getting?

If there is voltage to the pump is the pump stuck at all?

If there is no power to the pump - check the wiring, for continuity

- Check PCB

- Check Power Supply to PCB

- Check micro switch when hotwater is requested

 

[mattinker]

Is there voltage to the pump? Is so what voltage are you getting?

If there is voltage to the pump is the pump stuck at all?

If there is no power to the pump - check the wiring, for continuity

- Check PCB

- Check Power Supply to PCB

- Check micro switch when hotwater is requested

Vicvapour,

Thank you for your rapid reply! I tried to reply last night, but it "timed out"! There seems to be a lot of traffic on this server. I went to bed early as it was too cold to stay up!


Further tests revealed:-
The pump is not stuck.
Supply to the PCB OK
All I can check on the PCB is visually nothing is wrong.
Continuity in the wiring to the pump, 230 volts at the pump.
I changed the condenser as I was getting a reading of 100 ohms on both windings of the motor.
I dont know where the "micro switch when hot water is requested" is, but I'm not getting any LED messages about hot water demand.
I am now getting a "water not circulating" signal from the LEDs. It looks more and more like the pump.

Thanks again, regards, Matthew

 

[vicvapour]

Is the pump rotating?

Slacken the screw and you can see inside if it is rotating.

If it is rotating the pump is okay.

If the pump is not rotating and it is getting 230 volts replace the pump.

 

[mattinker]

vicvapour,


"If the pump is not rotating and it is getting 230 volts replace the pump."


Yes, it's a pump replacement, now all I have to do is find one!

Thanks! Matthew

 

[vicvapour]

Glad to be of help sir

 

[mattinker]

Glad to be of help sir

vicvapour,

I feel it's better to say a real thank you! I like to have a second opinion and any possible suggestions when I have to diagnose something of my own, when it's for me I don't always see the problem clearly!

The new pump is installed and running!

Thanks again, regards, Matthew

 

[vicvapour]

Glad to be of help sir

vicvapour,

I feel it's better to say a real thank you! I like to have a second opinion and any possible suggestions when I have to diagnose something of my own, when it's for me I don't always see the problem clearly!

The new pump is installed and running!

Thanks again, regards, Matthew

Im happy thats its all sorted Mathhew, all the best mate