Astra timing belt change

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Afternoon all.

I've recently bought a '53 Astra SXi. It has 55k on the clock, and doesn't seem to have had the timing belt changed. So as prevention is cheaper than the cure, I'm looking to get it changed.

I've looked around the internet and e-mailed a few mobile mechanics/garages (those advertising on the likes of Gumtree, as well as those with Yell pages). Only one has replied, and they don't offer that service.

So, roughly how much am I looking at to get it changed, and if necessary the water pump as well? It's the Z18XE engine. Am I right in thinking that at 9 years old, it's way overdue? (The service manual states 60k miles/6 years, whichever is soonest)

Thanks.

Just a thought....how difficult is a DIY cambelt change?
 
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I'd deem it an average job

- jack car up
- remove inner arch airbox & maf etc
- drain coolant
- remove aux belt
- using a plank of wood and jack support the engine then remove the engine mount on the timing belt side
- Take the timing belt top cover off, and remove the cam sensor
- take off top engine cover, remove coilpack, remove spark plugs
- align the marks on the cam sprockets so they're facing eachother at the same time that the crank pulley is aligned with the marker (which is about 2-3 oclock)
- lock the cams in place and mark everthing so you have a reference of tdc in case anything goes wrong
- remove the crank pulley using a spanner to stop it turning over whilst brute strength undoes the stretch bolt holding it in place
- now the lower timing belt cover can be removed
- slacken the timing belt tensioner and remove the belt
- advise replacing the timing belt tensioner, both rollers and the waterpump
- reverse make sure the alignment marks on the cams and crank pulley haven't moved
- Turn it over without spark plugs to test if everything is good to go
 
As a precaution turn it over twice using hands and a spanner, don't use starter motor to turn over, as if the belt was not put right, the starter motor has enough torque to bend valves, and if you use pressure from your hands then any valves hitting the pistons would stop you from turning the crank any further and prevent major damage.

If you require more depth on this, then check www.migweb.co.uk
 
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Thanks for the advice.

I don't think I'll tackle it myself. By the time I've bought tools etc it'd probably be cheaper to have it done at a garage. Not to mention the most I've ever done to a car was to change the wheel!

Thanks again.
 
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