Attaching PAX to wall the rubbish way

[ianb1965]

Morning all

Getting some PAX wardrobes delivered today. I took a section of skirting board off last night expecting to see plaster all the way to the floor. But no - the plaster stopped just below the top edge of the skirting board and then went to bare brick - this was once an outside wall before extension was built. Didn’t fancy leaving it like that because of creepy crawlies, drafts etc. So put skirting back.

I haven’t got space or skills to cut the panels to fit around the skirting.

So there will be a gap behind the robes the same thickness as the skirting board - it won’t actually be that noticeable.

So to attach to wall I was going to glue some wood blocks to the wall to take up the gap and then drill hole through the wood into the plaster and brick.

But can I then just use long wall plugs which will sit flush with the surface of the wood or do I need to push the plug through the hole in the wood so it sits flush with the underlying wall?

Thanks.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Definitely going the long way round there. Some loft insulation rammed into the gaps at the ends of the boards will solve the draught problems (and most of the insects).
Best to hammer the plugs through the wood blocks so the screws get a solid bite on the wall (if you really want to do your Plan B).
Easy enough to do- drill hole through timber & another 40-50mm into the wall. Insert plug, push it in so end is flush with timber. Screw a suitable screw in a couple of turns. Hit screw head till plug goes through timber and fully into the wall

 

[opps]

Expanding foam will stop bug and draughts better than the skirting board.

 

[foxhole]

Just use a rigid angle bracket to secure and span gap , no need for packing .

 

[opps]

Just use a rigid angle bracket to secure and span gap , no need for packing .

Good point. I often screw battens to the top of either side of the wardrobe and then screw those to the back wall using L brackets. You do however need sufficient clearance above (and the correct length of screws, oh, and the battens and the angle plates), but yeah, it has many advantages over the OP's suggestion. It, for example makes it easier easier to tilt the wardrobe backwards to level it and then lock it in place.

 

[mattylad]

ISTR that they are supplied with a pair of L brackets for wall fixing.
The problem will not be fixing these to your wooden batten, it will be in making a secure fixing to the PAX wardrobe.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

I will be fitting a few (five) Billy bookcases all joined together back to the wall as a permanent 'built in' project, I'm planning on fitting approximately 4 No. standard IKEA angle brackets back to the wall per unit, I will be using two of these per bracket to fix into the top of the Billy's. I'm at a loss as to whether there's a better/more secure fixing other than something ugly/mechanical. That said in my case they'll all be joined together and side fixed into the side walls too so not so much of a problem.

 

[ianb1965]

Thanks for all your suggestions. I hadn’t considered expanding foam. Will certainly help give a neater appearance.

PAX don’t come with L brackets - they have a keyhole type thing through the back of the wardrobe. But I don‘t think that would work anyway as we have the extra tall ones and we had to assemble upright and I have 2cm between top of wardrobe and ceiling.

So easy to put together even upright (with two people). The worst bit was getting the back into the grooves. Straightforward when laid down, less so when upright.

 

[ianb1965]

Thanks for all your help of this guys. Took the skirting off, got rid of a lot of crud and filled with expanding foam. (Note to self - it really does expand).

Of course - it was only when we assembled them and pushed them into my new gap that we realised the wall wasn’t flat. So although they touch the wall at some points, they don’t at others! Oh well!

 

[Koolpc]

I have always used L shaped brackets to secure wardrobes to the wall at the top.

If wardrobe goes to ceiling then simple slots can be cut just below top of wardrobe and L brackets attached to wall and wardrobe pushed towards brackets which go through the slots and then fixed to underside of the top of the wardrobe...