Basin and isolation valve issues...

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by robodelfy, 29 Jul 2020.

  1. robodelfy

    robodelfy

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    I'm just finishing up my bathroom. I'd planned to have right angle iso valves, but overlooked the fact the flathead bit to adjust them will be hidden behind the basin pedestal.

    I then thought I could use straight valves so I could adjust them from the side, but the Flexi pipes won't reach that far! Silly me

    The valve has an arrow on, and if the flow was the other way I could reach the adjustment bit from underneath. Maybe I could get a non directional one if they exist?

    Or I thought a right angle iso valve with the flathead adjustment slot on the side, I don't know if they exist.

    Do I really need to silicon the basin to the pedestal and the pedestal to the floor? It doesn't seem that necessary but I'm new to this. If not, then I could always remove the pedestal to adjust the iso valves

    Any advice would be great
    Cheers

    20200729_150347.jpg
     
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  3. CBW

    CBW

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    Isolation valves aren’t essential, only good practice. You Could go, elbow short stub of pipe, straight full bore isolation valve, tap tail adapter, threaded end into flexi, and just have a sweeping bend in the flexi towards the wastepipe.
     
  4. Madrab

    Madrab

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    No, not required, and really only if it's rocking about. The old pedestals used to have holes at the base and then use short brass screws to lock it down ( just like the older pans) so it can be removed easily when servicing the trap. Always best practice to ensure easy access for servicing later.
    The pedestal isn't really there to bear the weight of the basin rather than to just help support it.
     
  5. Madrab

    Madrab

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    If all else fails though get one of these :sneaky:

    [​IMG]
     
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  6. robodelfy

    robodelfy

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    Yeah I could do an elbow, but I don't have the equipment to solder copper, and push fit would be very ugly! I have the tap tails though :)
     
  7. robodelfy

    robodelfy

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    Ok thats good to know, its pretty solid when just placed on top of each other. Even if water does drip down the front, I don't really see how silicone helps. It just stops it going through and running down the back. Either way it gets on to the floor!

    If thats the case, maybe I can live with semi inaccessible valves. Thats if I can easily remove the pedestal when I need to. This is all new to me!
     
  8. Madrab

    Madrab

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    Silicone is really only used when the basin and pedestal aren't really a matched fit or the basin's slightly high, it just keeps it in all in place and stops it moving rather that to actually seal it up.

    Typically the basin is set at a height whereby it just sits on the pedestal and no more. When it comes to servicing then the fitting screws are loosened, the silicone cut and then using a shoulder under the basin to lift it an inch or two. That should allow enough clearance to allow the pedestal be twisted and everything disconnected or teased it out bottom first.

    Just need to be careful if they jam, as it's all ceramic, then it can splinter or chip. It's a feel, thing if that makes sense ... oh ... and have a piece of 2x2 ready in case the basin needs supported once the pedestal's removed.
     
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  9. robodelfy

    robodelfy

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    Thanks for the info, that makes sense. So it shouldn't be an issue if I leave it all un-siliconed and the iso valves hidden. I probably will never use them, but its good to know they are there. If I can find some tomorrow that are non directional then maybe I'll buy them to make it easier. But the ones I have are full bore, not that its really necessary for a basin
     
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  11. robodelfy

    robodelfy

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  12. Madrab

    Madrab

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    The stuff from BES is usually pretty good
     
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  13. dilalio

    dilalio

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    Just put the bent ballofixes the other way round. It won't be an issue, unless they incorporate an nrv. BES do them and they are bisexual :)

    Edit: just seen your link to BES product... They're perfect (y)
     
  14. Bodgedbuild

    Bodgedbuild

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    I'd fit as is and use either a coin or right angled screwdriver should the need to isolate arise. If you did want to use push fit parts and go for an elbow etc, why not use copper push fit such as Tectite? They look nicer than plastic push fit but are just as easy to fit...
     
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  15. robodelfy

    robodelfy

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    If I used the current angled valves I have, it would be impossible to get to with anything. But I didn't know about tectite, thanks I'll have a look
     
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  16. Madrab

    Madrab

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    Stopped using them now. Over time if the fitting isn't kept perfectly straight for whatever reason and there's any sideways stress then over time the o-rings start to leak. Seem to be replacing more and more of them these days.
     
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  17. dilalio

    dilalio

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    True dat! @Madrab :)
     
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