Bathroom light nightmare!

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I am attempting to cahnge my bathroom light.

When I removed the old one, I was horrified at the potentila fire that I could see.

Instead of the 2 or 3 wires I was expecting to see, there was indeed seven.

4 Red 2 Black and one green/yellow

The reds were all connected into a terminal block and wrapped in (well burnt) elec tape.

The black wires were similar.

Each of these then had single wires from the terminal blocks to the bulb fitment.

The green / yellow wire was taped out off the way.

I notice that my bedroom light doesnt work now, so I take it that the bedroom light is taken from the bathroom too?

If I wire the new light in as the old one was, is this safe? It certainly doesnt look safe with the amount of black burnt tape in there!

Any help much appreciated.

Thanks
 
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Hello

Firstly I would make sure that your new light is safe to install in the bathroom. (certain light's can only be installed within certain 'zones', ask here if unsure).

Please ensure that you only work with the power switched off.

Hope this helps

//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:lighting:rose


If unsure please ask here for detailed help rather than attempt the job.

All the Best

Ed
 
The reds were all connected into a terminal block and wrapped in (well burnt) elec tape.

So did your light stay on all the time, regardless of the switch position?

If not, the reds were not all connected together.

Chances are that one of these reds is a live feed in, another a live feed out a third a live feed to the switch and the fourth is a switched return from the switch.

The last one is the only one connected to the lampholder. The others are connected together as you suggest.

If you have lost continuity through the circuit, then you have either got a broken conductor in the terminal blocks somewhere or else trapped the insulation & the conductor is not actually making the circuit.
 
if it was done on blocks all the lives would be together live in live out switch line just like a rose
 
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But Philipa says there are four reds.

If the circuit is wired in the common fashion, three will be connected together & the fourth only to the live terminal of the lampholder.
 
just read the post again 4 reds 2 blacks and single wire from each that would mean light on permenent so only 3reds where in block
 
The OP said that the light fitting was connected to the 2 blacks only, so 1 black was N & the other black was L, the reds are the L loop only.
 
yes that was my first thought but reading it again op said all reds on a block
the blacks the same then a wire from each i think we have to get a more info ie is it singles or t&e
 
Instead of the 2 or 3 wires I was expecting to see, there was indeed seven.

4 Red 2 Black and one green/yellow
On a standard loop-in ceiling rose, unless it's the last one, I'd expect to see 9 wires, not 2 or 3.

Why do you think that 7 is a fire hazard?

The reds were all connected into a terminal block and wrapped in (well burnt) elec tape.

The black wires were similar.
Does the switch have 2 reds?

The green / yellow wire was taped out off the way.
How come there was only one??? :eek:

I notice that my bedroom light doesnt work now, so I take it that the bedroom light is taken from the bathroom too?
No, but they're on the same circuit 99.9999999999% of the time.

You should spend a bit of time learning how lighting circuits are wired....

If I wire the new light in as the old one was, is this safe? It certainly doesnt look safe with the amount of black burnt tape in there!
What state are the connector blocks in? Any sign that the overheating was due to circuit problems and not just heat from the lamp?
 
Philipa,
The reason that the red wires show signs of heating is this:

Wires and terminals vary in thickness, depending on the current that is designed to pass through them. A lighting circuit carries a relatively low current. Therefore, most terminal blocks in light fittings use only small screws, because they, too, should only carry a small current. It is very important that the screw comes into solid contact contact with the core of the wire, thus maximising the conductivity of the connection. If the screw only nips the wire, or penetrates through the insulating sleeve, the resistance is higher, due to the lower contact area at the connection. Higher resistance means higher temperatures. Fitting an excessive number of wires into one terminal hole also creates increased resistance when one of the wires doesn't make a good contact with the other wires or the screw.

So, you need to check out the cause of the heating damage.

Regarding the number of reds and blacks: I'm guessing that you have a neutral wire (normally sleeved black) sleeved with red and this is the switched live.

Are you able to provide a photo? You will get a quick quality answer if the pros can see the situation.
 
shaver socket perhaps
Is that how you think this forum works? You keep making wrong guesses until you go through enough wrong possibilities and stumble onto the right answer without knowing why?
 
Right guys , heres the situation.

I now know what I said originally was incorrect. Apologies.

After reading the post with the link to the diagram (thanks) I got wind of what I had to do.



I now have three cables from the ceiling roof, each with 3 wires.

The three red live wires go to a terminal block.
The switching wire (sleeved) goes to live on the light fitting.
The other two black wires go to a terminal block which is connected to the N on the light fitting.
All three earths go to earth.

I underastand this to be correct?

I have changed the blown 5am fuse, but still I have no lights upstairs at all.

Completely stumped and fed up!
 
now have three cables from the ceiling roof, each with 3 wires.

The three red live wires go to a terminal block.
The switching wire (sleeved) goes to live on the light fitting.
The other two black wires go to a terminal block which is connected to the N on the light fitting.
All three earths go to earth.

I underastand this to be correct?
That seems correct, but how did you identify the switched live?

I have changed the blown 5am fuse, but still I have no lights upstairs at all.
Do you have a multimeter?
 

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