Bathroom Plastering

Joined
2 May 2010
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Hi
I'm new to this forum, so please excuse me if the questions I ask have already been answered on this forum.

I have a bit of DIY plastering to do in my bathroom before I tile all the walls and floor, and I am looking for a bit of advice.
Basically, the previous owner of my house installed double glazed wooden framed windows and made a poor effort of re-plastering the wall. And when I removed a small number of tiles at the window fitted by the previous owner, half the window sill came away and the other half I removed myself because it was hollow underneath.
I will try and attach a few pictures to give you an idea of the problem.

I've never plastered before, and I was wondering what type of plaster would I need to use?
I know I need finishing plaster to skim it before tiling but I'm not sure what type of plaster to use first before skimming. ie bonding, browning etc. My friend has a half bag of bonding which he said he would give me, would that be ok to use?

Also do I need to PVA the wall/plaster at any stage?
 
Sponsored Links
Joined
30 Jun 2009
Messages
21,627
Reaction score
2,567
Location
Londonderry
Country
United Kingdom
Bonding: should be used as a base coat on low suction walls, such as concrete walls or wall that have been treated with a bonding agent.
Browning: is to be used on walls with a medium suction rate, these can be some brick or blocks, with a could mechanical key on, for the base coat to adhere.

Once the base coat is applied, use multi-finish plaster as you skim coat, it's best if you apply teo coats of this.
I would search the archive posts for explaination on methods to use.
Don't be using half bags of old plaster, unless it's only recently been purchased, as the chances are it will set very quickly, as the plaster may well be off.

A link to some useful advice:
http://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/plastering21.htm
 
Sponsored Links
Joined
2 May 2010
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Hi

If I use the bonding plaster would I have to wet the area with water or coat it with PVA before applying the bonding?

And If I then skim the bonding coat with a finish plaster, how long do I wait after applying the bonding before I apply the finish coat? And again do I have to wet or PVA the bonding coat or key it before applying the finish coat?
 
Joined
26 Apr 2005
Messages
10,632
Reaction score
1,042
Country
United Kingdom
I’d level it off with either a render mix or Bonding plaster & then dot & dab some 12.5mm plasterboard over it, one or two layers if you need to make up height; you can then use the edge of the plasterboard as a guide to fill out that wall face. Tile straight onto the PB, no need to skim it.
 
Joined
2 May 2010
Messages
12
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
I’d level it off with either a render mix or Bonding plaster & then dot & dab some 12.5mm plasterboard over it, one or two layers if you need to make up height; you can then use the edge of the plasterboard as a guide to fill out that wall face. Tile straight onto the PB, no need to skim it.

Hi

Thanks for your advice.
Excuse me if my next question sounds stupid but what do you mean by dot and dab?
Also instead of using plasterdoard, i have a bit of aqualpanel left over from making a bath panel, could I use this and if so after leveling the wall with bonding what would be the best way to secure the aquapanel to the leveled bonding.
 
Joined
26 Apr 2005
Messages
10,632
Reaction score
1,042
Country
United Kingdom
Excuse me if my next question sounds stupid but what do you mean by dot and dab?
http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/PLASTER_BOARDING_DIREcT_BOND.htm
Your piece of board will obviously bee much smaller but the principle is the same.

Also instead of using plasterdoard, i have a bit of aqualpanel left over from making a bath panel, could I use this and if so after leveling the wall with bonding what would be the best way to secure the aquapanel to the leveled bonding.
You can’t dot & dab Aquapanel cement board, it has to be additionally secured with mechanical fixings (screws); for this reason I would use plasterboard. The cost of a 1/3 size DIY sheet & a small bag of Drywall adhesive (or you can use a decent grab adhesive) is minimal in somewhere like B&Q.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Top