Baxi 105e: CH/HW cutting out

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The central heating runs for c. 30 seconds, then cuts out for 20 seconds, then runs for another 30 seconds. Rinse and repeat. Same for hot water.

Solutions I have tried so far:

- Replaced diverter with new Baxi replacement as old one was in a bad way and radiators were warming when running a bath.

- Replaced plate heat exchanger and nearby wet pocket thermostat.

- Ran cleaner through the system. Have had a MagnaClean on the CH return for the last three years and it's not picking up much at all.

Any suggestions on what is causing this?

EDIT: video below (though might need to turn up your volume, it's a bit quiet). There's also a bit of a whistling noise that I haven't noticed before:

 
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Pump working ok?
Not my area of knowledge but I have dabbled.
No warning lights?
Pump is running and sounds fine. Getting a warning light on fan for about two seconds after boiler shuts off, and then the light disappears as the boiler fires up again.
 
Pump is running and sounds fine. Getting a warning light on fan for about two seconds after boiler shuts off, and then the light disappears as the boiler fires up again.
if your on about it going to the neon below the fan symbol that is not a warning light unless it flashes
 
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Something further.

After having replaced all of the above parts, there's now no hot water at all.

If the hot water tap is running, the heating also won't activate and pin at the top of the diverter isn't pushing the microswitch all the way. I can get in there and push it fully and then the heating comes on (but only for 30 seconds before cutting out as before).

If the hot water tap isn't running then the heating works fine for 30 seconds.

I have no idea what's causing this, it was allegedly a brand new diverter from eBay.
 
If the hot water tap is running, the heating also won't activate and pin at the top of the diverter isn't pushing the microswitch all the way. I can get in there and push it fully and then the heating comes on (but only for 30 seconds before cutting out as before).

Should you be messing about in there at all, are you gas qualified?
 
Surely it's fine to work on the non-gas? (excluding any sealed areas)

It's possible your diverter is terrible. I had a Ravenheat RSF84 boiler which was similar-ish to a Baxi 105, and remember official diverters being expensive. I tried a £25 one, and it was a piece of junk. So I had to bite the bullet and get a proper one.

Can you monitor the flow temperature? Is the boiler cutting out because it's getting too hot? (close to 90 degC). If so, why is the heat not getting away? Blockage? Bad pump?
 
Surely it's fine to work on the non-gas? (excluding any sealed areas)

It's possible your diverter is terrible. I had a Ravenheat RSF84 boiler which was similar-ish to a Baxi 105, and remember official diverters being expensive. I tried a £25 one, and it was a piece of junk. So I had to bite the bullet and get a proper one.

Can you monitor the flow temperature? Is the boiler cutting out because it's getting too hot? (close to 90 degC). If so, why is the heat not getting away? Blockage? Bad pump?
It cuts out around 50C-60C (as hot as it can get in 30 seconds).

Diverter was from a place on eBay who are happy to take it back when I explained the issue, so have ordered one from a reputable place nearby to collect and will see if that helps.
 
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Think it is time you got someone in who can actually stand in front of the boiler and see exactly what its doing and not doing
Had a gas engineer round before and they said it was the plate heat exchanger. The eBay diverter's pin is definitely not reaching high enough so I'm happy to give a diverter from a local trustworthy supplier a try, but otherwise getting another professional in sounds sensible
 

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