Baxi 105he rads not hot enougth

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The boiler has just had new diaphragms in diverter. The boiler was isolated at the boiler and drained at boiler.
My friend said there seemed to be more water than usual came out. As he's had a lot of jobs done on the diverter. And helps out with opening / closing taps, getting rid of drained water etc , so he was aware there was more water than usual.
He's phoned me saying the radiators arnt as hot. Cold at bottom and returns are cool, at boiler and at rads.
I've ran through everything with him on phone, and after some thought I think the return isolating valve is suspect.
It looks like it never closed off completely and when turned back on it hasn't opened fully.
Has anyone had similar issue. And is is possible to remove black tab and use grips to open it. Or will it be broke inside??
He says all valve are pointing towards him, so all look open, but return must still be partially closed?
Thanks
 
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It looks like it never closed off completely and when turned back on it hasn't opened fully.
The heating flow&return valves should have a cap's or a connection to the filling loop,the cap or connection to the filling loop can both be unscrewed (drain out first) and have a good look inside the valve to ensure the ball is not restricting the valve. There may also be a filter in either valve which needs to be 100% clean.


Avoidance of turning flow&return valves has its advantages,they have been known to leak water (n)
 
He got back to me and the valves are fully open , but he's noticed the pump is very hot. So looks like pump is fubar?? But isn't it strange how you fix one thing and a lot of the time another problem occurs?
Just so we can focus on problem at hand! Is there any way that the new heating diaphragm change has caused one of the push rods inside diverter to cause a restriction in any way, thus making pump work harder and overheat?
 
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He got back to me and the valves are fully open , but he's noticed the pump is very hot. So looks like pump is fubar?? But isn't it strange how you fix one thing and a lot of the time another problem occurs?
Just so we can focus on problem at hand! Is there any way that the new heating diaphragm change has caused one of the push rods inside diverter to cause a restriction in any way, thus making pump work harder and overheat?
nope the boiler doesnt have a heating diaphragm as you call it, the boiler has a DHW diaphragm and a pump proving diaphragm, the latter operates in both CH and DHW mode it is there to protect the boiler from low water content or a failed pump
 
So can the central heating differential diaphragm cause issue like I've described or is it just bad luck and suspect pump
 
Yeh that's the filter that was cleaned and checked.

Update-
The guy has checked divertor and sprayed wd40 into it Anyway he got it working . Then after a day it stopped again.
Air can be heard wooshing in boiler, like a restriction . So it's gotta be a divertor issue.
I wonder if the new springs are responsible. Or the new plunger ( push rod) things with o rings on are slightly too big. As the parts won't be original baxi from eBay??
Anyway I doubt he has removed the heating differential area . Just a guess as he's not experienced. So he must of removed the hw section, to get it to work. Does this mean it's sticking slightly in hw so by-passing the heating ??
 
Sarcastic sod, your just jumping on what i just said. Only constructive comment please .
I'm helping from a distance when knowbody else is helping, and like I said they could be ****e parts , I'm covering all angles .
 
has the pcb been worked on at any time ? its easy on these to put the PCB in withe the potentiometers 180 degrees out so when the front dial says max its actually at min
 

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