baxi combi boiler 105 he need change diaphragm?

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hello,
I noticed slow leak from the bottom of my combi boiler, the plumber said that the diaphragm has to be replaced and wants to charge me 160 pounds plus VAT, is it me or looks too expensive? could anyone give me some advice please?
 
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tell him to go fek himself its a ten quid part and from walking in the door to walking out is 15 mins.
 
yeah order up the stuff from ebay and try it yourself.
take a picture of the exact bit thats leaking and ill try and find the part you need.
 
hello,

I noticed slow leak from the bottom of my combi boiler, the plumber said that the diaphragm has to be replaced and wants to charge me 160 pounds plus VAT,

So you called him out to diagnose the fault free of charge? I charge £84 in our local area!

No competent engineer would usually come out free! So you have a less competent one perhaps and because he knows that when he tells you whats wrong there is a good chance that you will not engage him to fix it so he has to quote more to cover his wasted visits.

I hope that he was clever enough to tell you something other than the real fault so that you get it wrong if you try to do it yourself.

You have ripped off the engineer and wasted his time!

Tony
 
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Diagnose this fault over the phone no need for a visit .

The only ripping off being done here is charging £192 for a `10 minute job no wonder this trade gets a bad name.
A lot of guys will come out for nothing and they will be more compotent than someone who has to advertise on an internet forum day in day out.
 
1. Turn off mains and open a hot tap.
2. Undo the screw securing the microswitch bracket to the valve.
3. Disconnect the front sensing pipe.
4. To replace the diaphragm, carefully remove the six screws of the diaphragm housing. The diaphragm spring will force apart the two halves of the valve - so be ready!
6. Remove the plastic disc and pushrod assembly. Carefully remove & replace the diaphragm.
7. Reassemble in reverse order.
8. Replace stuffing box on the front of the brass diaphragm housing (thats probably the bit thats leaking). Replace washer & 'o' ring that are supplied in the repair kit.
9. Close the hot tap, turn on the mains & check for leaks.

Including time taken to drink a cup of tea you will have the job done in 20 minutes.

You will need THIS

EDIT: Give the spindle a clean before you re-assemble.

Mr. W.
 
Diagnose this fault over the phone no need for a visit .

The only ripping off being done here is charging £192 for a `10 minute job no wonder this trade gets a bad name.
A lot of guys will come out for nothing and they will be more compotent than someone who has to advertise on an internet forum day in day out.

Last year wouldn't BG have wanted the same amount under their fixed price?
 
And what is your point?
The OP has not called out BG he has phoned a guy who i doubt is advertising a fixed price repair regardless of cost of the part and ulike the call centre staff at BG he will/should know what the customers actual fault is by the description.

Do you think his call out/diagnostic fee is actually £182 or do you think he is going to pretend the job was far more involved than it is and the part cost 5 times what he paid for it
 
All you guys dont seem to have read whats going on here.

I dont remember ever seeing a diaphragm causing any leaks!

But I have seen many pin glands!

More significant leaks are the pin gland in the manifold section.

Tony
 
agiles right the diaphrgam letting water pass doesnt cause the leek and the full repair kit will solve it .however these boilers are known to like soaking the electrics on repair so make sure you do it slowly open hot taps to get most of water out the system especially if they are higher than boiler after stop cock is off and wrap the pcb housing in plenty of towels in case stuff them well round to absorb any splashes or runs .and no i dont have call out charge to diagnose and usually get job to decent rates and service ,diaphrgam change including parts normally 55-65 notes normally got one on van
 
thanks for your replies guys!

does anyone think that this "slow leak" may be caused by condensation? how can i check it?
thanks a lot
 
To be honest it can be anything!

But unless its in a very steamy place condensation is the least likely.

If its only when the boiler is working then it could be condensation as in condensate!

Tony
 
Undo two screws on the front lift the frony case off .

Lefthand side brass thing facing you with a micro switch is there a little drip coming from the centre of it .
That is where 99% of them leak from and requires the gland nut changing and that comes with a diaphragm kit
 
if we are encouraging op's to repair there own boilers, are they competent to check that they are operating safely after they have carried out work on them?
 

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