Bent stairs

[big-all]

you wont know what will happen untill you remove the support but you know what i suspect will happen

also notice the crued filing in of the open risers[the bit between the tread backs ]

 

[AND1234]

you wont know what will happen untill you remove the support but you know what i suspect will happen

also notice the crued filing in of the open risers[the bit between the tread backs ]

Well a big saw and crow bar later and ive removed the tops off the upright supports. Walls a bit flimsey now (like it'll prob fall down) but I can remove whole wall when i'm ready to sort living room...

The stringer does seam to have dropped marginally but still not straight. Would you allow it time to settle and take it from there?
I couldnt believe the infill bits either! More dodgy hardboard! What would you replace these with? I will be replaceing the carpet on top!

 

[big-all]

i would expect it to settle fairly level indeed i would go as far as to say without anybody on the stairs measure the drop required to make it level

if its say 18mm get yourself a bit off timber 18mm shorter than under tread to floor screw tight to the tread [18mm off the floor] as a tenporary support untill handrail and infill panel fitted

the easiest way to fill in the steps is mdf same thickness as the gap in the risers with angle holes to underneath the treads and a 2" wide strip to overlap from the riser to the mdf

 

[AND1234]

i would expect it to settle fairly level indeed i would go as far as to say without anybody on the stairs measure the drop required to make it level

if its say 18mm get yourself a bit off timber 18mm shorter than under tread to floor screw tight to the tread [18mm off the floor] as a tenporary support untill handrail and infill panel fitted

the easiest way to fill in the steps is mdf same thickness as the gap in the risers with angle holes to underneath the treads and a 2" wide strip to overlap from the riser to the mdf

Thats great thanks, i'm assuming the 2" overlap is to the back so you cant see it? Hopefully get some piccys up when its all done...

 

[AND1234]

Oh no... Not more bent bits...

Took the carpet and underlay off to fill the gaps above the treads and..........

Third step down and fifth step down!!! Was thinking maybe I could screw a bit of 3 by 2 behind where the MDFs going in screw though the tread down to it to pull this straight? Anyone with any better ideas?

 

[big-all]

your treads are very chunky and unlikly after all this time to move more than 1 or 2mm

if a tread is a few mm out dont forget the back edge also plays as much a part in leveling it out

 

[JerryM]

from the latest pic i think the stairs themselves are the problem.

they are not what i would call traditional - they are an open stair. i don't believe this type is a strong as the traditional type ie with treads and risers (the risers here have been added after manufacture).

the side nearest the wall has received additional support by being attached to the wall. the other side has no support and is why it's bowed. i don't feel the cupboard has done anything in fact it's been fitted too late (bow had probably happened within 3 mth of being installed) to provide additional support.

in terms of what to do - for me live with it.

 

[AND1234]

from the latest pic i think the stairs themselves are the problem.

they are not what i would call traditional - they are an open stair. i don't believe this type is a strong as the traditional type ie with treads and risers (the risers here have been added after manufacture).

the side nearest the wall has received additional support by being attached to the wall. the other side has no support and is why it's bowed. i don't feel the cupboard has done anything in fact it's been fitted too late (bow had probably happened within 3 mth of being installed) to provide additional support.

in terms of what to do - for me live with it.

The bows in the treads and ths stringer are all up though. I would have thought if it wasnt strong enough with less support it'd bow down? Gravity and all that?

 

[JerryM]

wood can go anywhere if it's not good quality (seasoned to let the moisture dry out under weighted conditions) or assembled well (to hold it in a fixed intended position).

i'm trying to say it's not a top notch stair and i myself would move on and forget about it.

 

[AND1234]

wood can go anywhere if it's not good quality (seasoned to let the moisture dry out under weighted conditions) or assembled well (to hold it in a fixed intended position).

i'm trying to say it's not a top notch stair and i myself would move on and forget about it.

Okay thanks for everyones help. Filled the gaps in the treads today with the MDF and ordered the Axxys stair-parts so watch this space for the finished picys...

Thanks again...