So the burner reaches temperature and turns off.
Then on the next demand for heat it locks out.??
OR
The burner cuts out mid burn and locks out trying to re ignite??
Were I in front of the boiler. I would be checking for fuel release and an ignition spark at the electrodes.
The symptoms are typically those of a faulty coil.
Which boiler is it on.
Is the burner easily removed.
Were I in front of the boiler. I would be checking for fuel release and an ignition spark at the electrodes.
The symptoms are typically those of a faulty coil.
Which boiler is it on.
Is the burner easily removed.
To check if you have oil the blast tube should be wet also check the electrodes are far enough forward they could have slipped back and they arent in the oil mist.Bob
Were I in front of the boiler. I would be checking for fuel release and an ignition spark at the electrodes.
The symptoms are typically those of a faulty coil.
Which boiler is it on.
Is the burner easily removed.
Hi Terry,
Sorry for only getting back now, I did a few more tests and results below:
1: when burner is switched on , I am only getting 68 volts ac across the solenoid and it's not opening now
2: removed the burner from boiler and electrodes are not sparking and also ceramic insulation is cracked
3: also no oil spraying through the oil nozzle when requested
I hope this helps you further in resolving my issue
Thanks again
Gerkoss boiler
No1 check electrodes for continuity if not put on new ones check the leads if no good put on new ones if still no good you'll need a transformer put on new solenoid you'll also need to check the oil pressure at the pump, the sterling is a good burner if a little fickle.Bob
No1 check electrodes for continuity if not put on new ones check the leads if no good put on new ones if still no good you'll need a transformer put on new solenoid you'll also need to check the oil pressure at the pump, the sterling is a good burner if a little fickle.Bob
Hi,
Getting back to you with update:
1: I've changed the control box with brand new box
2: I've changed electrodes with brand new electrodes
3: I've changed photocell with brand new cell
4: I've changed oil nozzle with brand new nozzle
Problem still seems to be there, I am getting sparks at the electrodes now, oil nozzle is wet so I know there is oil coming from it, I don't seem to be getting 220v at the solenoid, Should I be getting 220v at the solenoid when burner is on ? I did continuity test on solenoid cable and all is good
If the oil nozzle is wet, then this suggests that solenoid is opening during ignition phase. The one thing you have ignored is what oil pressure are you getting at the pump? This could be your problem given what you have changed.
If the oil nozzle is wet, then this suggests that solenoid is opening during ignition phase. The one thing you have ignored is what oil pressure are you getting at the pump? This could be your problem given what you have changed.
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