general guidance required, i am going to replace my current kitchen and dining room lights with 240v down lights, the kitchen will require 12 downlights and the dining room will require 16 downlights. what is the best approach to wiring them up, for example in the case of the kitchen, would it be better to put a junction box after the switch, which then feeds four lots of four lights?
best solution for downlighters
- Thread starter gtmax
- Start date
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work in kitchens is notifiable under part P of the building regulations..
you will need to notify your Local Authority Building Control before starting work, and pay the fees..
see the wiki for information on part P..
you will need to notify your Local Authority Building Control before starting work, and pay the fees..
see the wiki for information on part P..
Best solution?
Seriously, don't do it. Even if you do want underfloor heating for the bedrooms and bathroom above.
Seriously, don't do it. Even if you do want underfloor heating for the bedrooms and bathroom above.
totally missed that point dingbat...
downlighters are the bane of many an electricians life..
they just horrible..
they don't give a suitable "utility" light level for cooking etc..
best to use fluorescents in the kitchen..
and if you're after "mood lighting" in the lounge, use table and stand lamps on round pin sockets wired into dimmer switches as needed..
downlighters are the bane of many an electricians life..
they just horrible..
they don't give a suitable "utility" light level for cooking etc..
best to use fluorescents in the kitchen..
and if you're after "mood lighting" in the lounge, use table and stand lamps on round pin sockets wired into dimmer switches as needed..
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Oh, tell me about it.
I recently gave in to a customer's insistence on the wretched things, despite all my best efforts to educate him.
Three weeks later a lamp failed:
Client: "Hello, you know those downlights? Well one of the lamps has gone. I know it's the lamp because it's gone all black."
Me: "Well, I left you some spares."
[pause]
Client: "Um... I haven't got any ladders tall enough."
I laughed my kock off!
hi again guys, i was looking for some simple guidance on the best approach for downlight wiring, not a part p speach, or dont do it speaches.
the facts are i already have the lights, the wife wants them and like most men who want a quiet life, i do what she wants.
I am installing 16 lights in the kitchen, and was going to wire them in in four lots of four, all fed from a junction box which is switched live, which i see as better practice, or would it be as good to daisy chain the lot?
the facts are i already have the lights, the wife wants them and like most men who want a quiet life, i do what she wants.
I am installing 16 lights in the kitchen, and was going to wire them in in four lots of four, all fed from a junction box which is switched live, which i see as better practice, or would it be as good to daisy chain the lot?
since you don't want the speeches, are we to assume that you have notified your LABC that you are..
a.) doing work in a special location
b.) installing an extra-low voltage lighting system which is not a pre-assembled lighting set bearing the CE marking referred to in regulation 9 of the Electrical Equipment (Safety) Regulations 1994
????
either way you have mentioned is acceptable.. but the second way is the norm..
the first way leaves you with 4 junction boxes as test points, however, 3 of them at least will have 6 cables into them, making it very congested inside..
these junction boxes need to be accessible for testing..
a.) doing work in a special location
b.) installing an extra-low voltage lighting system which is not a pre-assembled lighting set bearing the CE marking referred to in regulation 9 of the Electrical Equipment (Safety) Regulations 1994
????
either way you have mentioned is acceptable.. but the second way is the norm..
the first way leaves you with 4 junction boxes as test points, however, 3 of them at least will have 6 cables into them, making it very congested inside..
these junction boxes need to be accessible for testing..
You (quite sensibly) didn`t want the bloody things.
Your Wife (understandably) did.
Therefore she won.
It happens every time.
I learnt long ago about the reason for all the arguements.
It`s all about decisions.
She makes all the small decisions - where we go on holiday, furniture and decour in the home etc etc.
I make all the big decisions - who should be president of America and whether we should belong to NATO.
We never argue nowadays - sorted.
Your Wife (understandably) did.
Therefore she won.
It happens every time.
I learnt long ago about the reason for all the arguements.
It`s all about decisions.
She makes all the small decisions - where we go on holiday, furniture and decour in the home etc etc.
I make all the big decisions - who should be president of America and whether we should belong to NATO.
We never argue nowadays - sorted.
Better to loop in and out at each fitting so your last fitting contains only one cable.
Buy 5 meters of 1mm2 heat resistant flex and 16 x 20A 4 terminal junction boxes (small type).
Use a small junction box at each downlight and a short length of heat resistant flex for connection to the downlight.
The secret to a happy marriage from my experiences with Mrs Twocities:
Make sure that you always have the final words in any arguement.
Those final words are
"Yes, dear"
Make sure that you always have the final words in any arguement.
Those final words are
"Yes, dear"
I'd suggest you add in multiple switching, say a quad switch to control 4 banks of 4 or a double to switch 2 banks of 4.
If you use 50w lamps, 800w on 1 switch means full power (and cost) at all times.
Since down light fittings can be removed it sensible to have any above ceiling j/b's placed so you can service them by removing a dl fitting and dropping the jb out the hole.
If you use 50w lamps, 800w on 1 switch means full power (and cost) at all times.
Since down light fittings can be removed it sensible to have any above ceiling j/b's placed so you can service them by removing a dl fitting and dropping the jb out the hole.
I would agree with the advice to connect in a chain and use 4 switches for 4 sets of 4 lights.
I would check the need for fire and acoustic rating fittings as it might be that above the kitchen/dining room there are bed rooms ...?
I would check the need for fire and acoustic rating fittings as it might be that above the kitchen/dining room there are bed rooms ...?
I hope you're going to use CFLs or LEDs in those downlighters...
28 lamps at 50 Watts each = 5.833A quite a load!!!
And then SWMBO will want dimmers on them.
For kitchen it is best to have good under cupboard lighting so you can see to prepare food etc and 800 Watts of lighting in a dining room seems a OTT unless you want to closely inspect the food.
I think that SWMBO needs to read all the replies to your post and read this last line
Todays downlighters are tomorrows decking.
Be aware that in the future you will not be able get the halogen lamps as incandescent lamps will be phased out in favour of low energy (CFL) lamps for the environments sake.
USE CFLS!!!!!
They look no different and give a MUCH better light than halogens.
You do, however, have to wait for them to get warm, a good 3 minutes.
This shouldnt be a problem though if you combine them with good fluorescent striplights under the cupboards.
They look no different and give a MUCH better light than halogens.
You do, however, have to wait for them to get warm, a good 3 minutes.
This shouldnt be a problem though if you combine them with good fluorescent striplights under the cupboards.
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