Best stuff for rust proofing nuts etc under car???
- Thread starter sonofrob
- Start date
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Its a good move to brush grease onto any exposed brake lines where the coating has been removed, especially at the unions and so on. Any grease will do, the more fluid the better.
As for other areas then Waxoyl is as good as anything - the likes of suspension components and so on have limited paint quality and no primer. Suspension bushes won’t be affected.
Pay particular attention where exhaust shields are fixed to the bodywork.....alloy meets mild steel etc. This saves a load of grief later on.
John
As for other areas then Waxoyl is as good as anything - the likes of suspension components and so on have limited paint quality and no primer. Suspension bushes won’t be affected.
Pay particular attention where exhaust shields are fixed to the bodywork.....alloy meets mild steel etc. This saves a load of grief later on.
John
I use this, much better product than waxoyl.
https://bilthamber.com/product/dynax-ub/
https://bilthamber.com/product/dynax-ub/
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Just to hoy a metaphorical spanner into the works.....
I've spent a lot of dosh on Bilt Hamber products in the past, but unfortunately can't say they've performed better than many of the usual products.
For sure, once rust is there, it's there to stay unless you can cut it out
Dinitrol was one of the more popular brands, but it seems to be hard to get these days.
John
I've spent a lot of dosh on Bilt Hamber products in the past, but unfortunately can't say they've performed better than many of the usual products.
For sure, once rust is there, it's there to stay unless you can cut it out
Dinitrol was one of the more popular brands, but it seems to be hard to get these days.
John
Dinitrol was one of the more popular brands, but it seems to be hard to get these days.
John
Had my Range Rover classic treated with this brand this summer. Had it done a few years ago & Waxoyl was used prior to that.
I make up a sticky mixture of grease, underseal and old engine oil. It never dries and it doesn't seal in moisture. It is very messy to apply (with a brush) and attracts dirt, which does no harm. It will stay on for years if it doesn't get the direct spray from the tyres.
This company are good for rust related products.
https://www.rust.co.uk/
https://www.rust.co.uk/
Just had to give mine some attention, after 13 years. Long ago I used old sump oil, let it soak into brake pipes, then blathered with thick grease, finally I put small diameter split plastic flexible electrical pipe over the top. This was at the front, over the really exposed sections in the wheel arch worked well. I couldn't use the pipe at the rear, so decided to just try to keep them oiled and greased, until I had them replaced this year. I replaced them with copper pipes.
The pressed steel rear arms, were the only part of the car, which had not been properly rust treated at the factory, so I had them rust proofed earlier in the year at great expense. It was suggested to be an expensive two stage process of some sort. Red and then a black coating.
They made a great job of the pipe, but I wasn't all that convinced by their rust treatment. I'd told them the priority was those rear arms and on inspecting it when I got it home, they had only done the underside of the arms, not even removing the rear wheels to do it, so I had 'words' with them and got them to do the job properly.
The pressed steel rear arms, were the only part of the car, which had not been properly rust treated at the factory, so I had them rust proofed earlier in the year at great expense. It was suggested to be an expensive two stage process of some sort. Red and then a black coating.
They made a great job of the pipe, but I wasn't all that convinced by their rust treatment. I'd told them the priority was those rear arms and on inspecting it when I got it home, they had only done the underside of the arms, not even removing the rear wheels to do it, so I had 'words' with them and got them to do the job properly.
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