Best technique for applying sealant to skirting

[coeur]

I have to seal the join between new skirting and the wall. I'm going to use acrylic sealant but would like to know the best technique for applying and smoothing the sealant.

I'm dreading the job!!! Previously, I have got in to a real mess when trying to get a smooth join and have resorted to using masking tape either side of the join to collect the excess sealant. But there has to be a better (and quicker) way.

Should I smooth the sealant with my finger or a tool? Should I use water or washing up liquid for a smoother finish? How much sealant should I use? And how do I stop the excess speading further up the wall than intended?

Any advise and best practices would be gratefully recieved,

Many thanks, Steve

 

[Krispy77]

I use a little and dip my finger in washing up liquid/water mix. Gives a smooth finish and it doesn't stick to your finger so much!

 

[big-all]

remember to paint first as its difficult to paint on top off silicon

 

[opps]

DO NOT USE SILICONE!!!

Buy yourself the COX mastic gun with the little black insert on the pressure release tab. This gun has the advantage of releasing the pressure automatically when you stop pulling the trigger, so no more mess as the filler continues to churn out of the end. This is where most of the mess occurs. The gun is caked in filler which gets on you hands and ends up every where.
Cut the end of the nozzle at 45 degrees, the width being the width of the required bead.

Apply constant pressure on the trigger as you work, slowing the speed at which you move the gun where the gaps are wider.

Once applied, smooth immediately. I use my finger (or thumb depending on bead width) and water. Don't use washing up liquid as it has silicates which could impair paint adhesion.

Try not to drown the surface, this might affect the skin.

Apply light pressure whilst smoothing, if you need to do two passes then so be it. You can use the first pass to "move" the caulk and the second, third, etc., to smooth it. There are times when filling awkward profiles where my first smooth it to one surface and the second to the perpendicular surface, followed by a third to appease both surfaces.

A decent quality mastic will make life so much easier, so are too thin, others are too thick, some leave rough edges when you try to smooth, some shrink too much or crack. My fav brand is everbuild 125, less than a quid at ToolStation.

Pre-priming the area will make smoothing easier. Ensure that it is dust free.

Once your technique improves you will end up with a bead that almost looks as though it doesn't need smoothing.

If need be, cut your finger nails, sometimes they can drag the filler, especially in the corners.

Good luck