Best way to build this wall out from studs

[Beverly27]

I'm renovating our bathroom due to leaks due to a shoddy install.

I need to sit the face of a wall, which will be tiled on 12mm aquaboard, 20mm further forward from the studs (shown in the photo with shower valves protruding), to ensure it sits over the pipes attached to the front, bottom edge so the shower tray can abut it. Hopefully, my sketch shows the 32mm I need to make up, which will be an additional 20mm beneath the 12mm aquaboard.

I'm posting here because this is more of a build question. What is the best way to bring the wall 20mm further forward? It had previously been a 12mm sheet of ply screwed to the studs, beneath a 12mm tiled plasterboard surface, which was 8mm too shallow.

Can I screw 20mm thick pieces of wood to the current stud work and mount the aquaboard directly to these battons? I'd also thought of screwing a sheet of 11mm and a sheet of 9mm OSB to the studs and then mounting the aquaboard on this OSB.

I don't want to bodge the repairs, and I'm baffled about how to solve this correctly!

.

 

[robinbanks]

Yes you can add battens onto the studs to spacer it out. If you don't have a (table/circ) saw capable of ripping timber to 20mm you can use eg 19mm slate batten.

I'd glue and pin the battens on.. When you mount the panels use screws long enough to go right through the batten and into the stud at least 20mm

Don't forget there are pipes there when you're whacking screws in, and do make sure that you have a strategy for dealing with the scenario where the valve/tap protrusions aren't long enough; either pull the valves forward 20mm or make a recessed panel feature

 

[^woody^]

One or two timber battens to get to the required thickness.

Or cut strips of ply or OSB, or plasterboard or the aqua board and just tack these on initially, and just increase the screw length when fixing the final aqua board so that the screws go into the main studwork by at least 30mm or so.

 

[Beverly27]

Yes you can add battens onto the studs to spacer it out. If you don't have a (table/circ) saw capable of ripping timber to 20mm you can use eg 19mm slate batten.

I'd glue and pin the battens on.. When you mount the panels use screws long enough to go right through the batten and into the stud at least 20mm

Don't forget there are pipes there when you're whacking screws in, and do make sure that you have a strategy for dealing with the scenario where the valve/tap protrusions aren't long enough; either pull the valves forward 20mm or make a recessed panel feature

Thanks. I'd completely forgotten about the impact on the valves, so you've saved me from a potential nightmare there! I'll see if they're adjustable.

 

[Beverly27]

One or two timber battens to get to the required thickness.

Or cut strips of ply or OSB, or plasterboard or the aqua board and just tack these on initially, and just increase the screw length when fixing the final aqua board so that the screws go into the main studwork by at least 30mm or so.

Thanks Woody.

 

[Koolpc]

Make sure u make a note of where the pipes are. Take measurements if need be.

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Could you just use thicker or multiple layers of tile board?

 

[Beverly27]

Make sure u make a note of where the pipes are. Take measurements if need be.

After cutting through a pipe yesterday, this is sound advice!

 

[Beverly27]

Should I just plaster the gap at the top of the wall between the Abacus Elements board and ceiling, shown in the photo, or should I seal it somehow? Thanks for all your responses so far, the help I've received here over the years has been invaluable.

 

[^woody^]

The tiles will cover it and then just silicone seal to the ceiling.

 

[robinbanks]

Or, maybe not silicone if you want to paint it, but some paintable sealant instead..

 

[Beverly27]

Or, maybe not silicone if you want to paint it, but some paintable sealant instead..

Thanks robinbanks.

 

[^woody^]

It will need to be mould resistant.