Best way to finish off bad door install

[johnny2007]

You won't find the same one, but many similar.
I bought a solid oak front door from selco for £120 and used it as an internal door in a porch.
Probably the bargsin of the century, but there were many styles in stock.

 

[Keithmac]

We bought "proper" solid clear pine doors for around £60 each (I had to fit 7 of them!).

To be fair to to the joiner thats not in and shape or form a solid wood door..

 

[Milleniumaire]

To be fair to to the joiner thats not in and shape or form a solid wood door.

I agree they are not "proper" solid doors. He's a joiner (supposedly) and so has fit many different types of doors before. Plus, I printed out the instructions and highlighted (in green) the warning about not taking too much off one end. I did this because the previous joiner did exactly this, so I didn't want it to happen again.

So either he chose a) not to read the instructions, b) read them and ignore them or c) be completely incompetent. There's no excuse for him not being aware of not taking too much off one end of the door:

20191208_134027

• Milleniumaire
• 8 Dec 2019

 

[Milleniumaire]

Yes, you do need to do something to seal the bottom if at all possible, however with a planked effect door like that I think you may have major problems trying to do a neat trimming job on an ironed-on strip. Those grooves will be the issue. Maybe just seal the bottom edges with 2 or 3 coats of a clear lacquer (NOT water based, though) to prevent any possiblity of moisture wicking? I'd still be concerned about future chipping of the surface veneer along the bottom edges.

The door bottom has now been sanded as much as is possible and sealed with some coats of varnish. It is better and hopefully we can forget about it now.

Just sorted out the second issue I found while treating the doors - he appears to have somehow cause some of the veneer to come loose and bulge around the handle. Most of it is behind the handle, but it does extend beyond it. I have used wood glue and clamps to force this flat again and this appears to have worked.

Thanks for all who commented. Once I've finished refurbishing the bathroom I need to find another joiner to fit another 3 identical doors, or consider doing it myself, although I know my limitations and I'm definitely NOT a joiner

 

[foxhole]

Probably came loose as drill burst thru the sides, XL are very poor quality imo.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Basic error which shouldn't happen if you are competent. It can be avoided by either not pushing so hard, then only the point of the auger bit exits the door and the hole can be completed by drilling the last but out from the other side (using the hole to centre) OR by clamping a piece of scrap plywood/MDF/softwood to the side of the door where the drill bit will exit. If you have to push a drill bit hard to go through a chipboard core door either your bit is blunt or you're using the wrong type of bit (e.g screw-point spade bit). Bedy bit for this sort of work is a screw point auger bit - and they are more controllable lf they are run at lower speeds