Question for joiners (replacing internal doors)

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In the New Year I'm arranging for the internal doors at mum's place to be replaced. The original plan was just to arrange door replacements. However the frames are a bit of a mess, some more than others. There used to be foam insulating strips on the stops, now removed however has left residue that will need tackled. Also staple hole marks here and there ... don't ask! I'm also thinking unless the joiner uses exactly the same places for striking plate and hinges, there could be gaps that need filled.

Although it'll obviously entail more work and more expense, I want this job done right. Don't have the time these days to tackle it myself. For the joiners reading this, would you be just as happy ripping out the frames (architrave, stops, legs and if need be the heads) and installing fresh wood and doors from scratch? For reference, it's a small high rise apartment/flat so the current woodwork is very basic i.e. nothing fancy. Also, if I do instruct a joiner to rip and replace, are these complete frame kits worth considering, or would you rather just construct the frame yourself from scratch if it was you doing the job?

I just think aesthetically it will undoubtedly look better if the whole lot is new.
 
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Replace the lot.
Trying to fix a messed up frame and cut, shave and adjust a new door to suit it will cost more or less the same and the results will be disappointing.
Anyone who asked me to "just fit a new door" to an ancient frame would either get an inflated quote (double) or be convinced to change the frame and architraves.
Quicker, cheaper and much better results.
The only problem could be that there will be need for a little decoration around the frames if the plaster cracks.
Easily done.
 
Replace the lot.
Trying to fix a messed up frame and cut, shave and adjust a new door to suit it will cost more or less the same and the results will be disappointing.
Anyone who asked me to "just fit a new door" to an ancient frame would either get an inflated quote (double) or be convinced to change the frame and architraves.
Quicker, cheaper and much better results.
The only problem could be that there will be need for a little decoration around the frames if the plaster cracks.
Easily done.
Thanks, kind of what I was thinking. I should have said a couple of the frames are okay-ish (no foam strips were ever used on them) however the two doors used heavily (hall/lounge and lounge/kitchen) would need a fair amount of remedial work to make them look decent. Although all the frames are square and sound, I think doing just doors would be a bit of a bodge. We had this done in another house years back and there were gaps around the strike plate and hinge areas which required remedial work by me and never looked 100%

Would you rather the customer bought complete frame & door kits, or would you be equally happy creating your own frames from scratch? My only concern re full kits is they seem quite pricey.
 
It depends what the carpenter is happy with.
I don't mind certain doors and frames, but if it has to be wickes for example, I want to pick doors and frames myself because most of their wood is warped.
I have my table saw ready to cut, so making a few frames wouldn't be a problem, but sometimes is cheaper to buy ready made.
It depends what wood you want and what finish.
In other words, speak to the carpenter and see what he says.
He might even get you a discounted price from a local shop.
 
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Casings (3 inch thick) or linings (Inch&1/4 thick)?

Linings shouldn't be to difficult to replace, just get the right size and a big bag of 'Back Packers' Just may have to knock the old pads out and fit new ones - especially if using screws to fix the linings.

I'd not consider replacing casings as the head could be acting as a lintle.

A good chippy should be able to use the original hinge spacings on new doors.
 
Casings (3 inch thick) or linings (Inch&1/4 thick)?

Linings shouldn't be to difficult to replace, just get the right size and a big bag of 'Back Packers' Just may have to knock the old pads out and fit new ones - especially if using screws to fix the linings.

I'd not consider replacing casings as the head could be acting as a lintle.

A good chippy should be able to use the original hinge spacings on new doors.
Tbh not sure, I suspect based on the sizes you've given I'm referring to linings not casings. I suppose as a half way solution I could ask for just the stops to be replaced and the architrave. It's the stops that have the residue from the foam strips and it's the architrave that has staple marks on them. So whether the remainder is actually casing or lining, I suppose it could be left. I just thought having all fresh wood would look better as the striking plate and hinges would be going on to virgin wood i.e. nice and neat with no need to fill residual gaps.

There is a glass panel above each door and it crossed my mind there could be issues if the heads are removed i.e. glass essentially free to fall down/out. However as touched on by johnny2007, if the joiner had means to prop the head, perhaps the casings/linings could be removed and the heads left in place i.e. horizontal saw where lining and head meets?
 
I just thought having all fresh wood would look better as the striking plate and hinges would be going on to virgin wood i.e. nice and neat with no need to fill residual gaps.
Exactly.
A carpenter knows all the tricks in the book.
Leave it to them and replace the lot.
You will be pleased with the results.
 
As you have 'Borrowed' lights (the glass over the door) expect the door Lining to extend over the borrowed light so it will be custom made. I'd expect the head to be affixed to the joists after plasterboading but before plastering so you could be making more work than you expect. Make sure if you ask a carpenter to fit new linings that they are aware of the borrowed lights and they quote appropriately whether not not you wish to keep the borrowed lights.
 
Usually the glass on the top of the door fills the foot or so between door height and ceiling.
Again, the carpenter will measure and advise accordingly.
Good thing is that as there's glass, the door frame is not supporting anything heavy.
 
Usually the glass on the top of the door fills the foot or so between door height and ceiling.
Again, the carpenter will measure and advise accordingly.
Good thing is that as there's glass, the door frame is not supporting anything heavy.
Yeah that's what I was thinking. I'll prob get at least two maybe three quotes, if they all suggest leaving the frame as is bar the stops then I'll be guided by them, however my starting position will be that I'd like everything replaced (bar the head if easier for it to remain) and see what they say ... oh and what the quotes are like! :)
 
Yeah that's what I was thinking. I'll prob get at least two maybe three quotes, if they all suggest leaving the frame as is bar the stops then I'll be guided by them, however my starting position will be that I'd like everything replaced (bar the head if easier for it to remain) and see what they say ... oh and what the quotes are like! :)
I would replace the lot, including the glass frame so to have a uniform look.
A job to last forever rather than a patch up.
I like when my former customers call me after 20 years I've done a job and want it replaced, not because it's falling apart, but because they want to change style.
Makes the pain of many years go away.
 
Here are some pics that give an idea of the current frames. As you can see, the stops definitely need replaced to save tackling the foam strip residue. I also want the architrave replaced as it has staple marks etc. Yes could be filled but ... You can also see the glass above the frames.

[url=https://postimg.cc/t7C2Zdwc][/URL] [url=https://postimg.cc/njVYmZRm][/URL] [url=https://postimg.cc/62HVLSgm][/URL] [url=https://postimg.cc/d7jjDDBv][/URL] [url=https://postimg.cc/PLjMt112][/URL]
[url=https://postimg.cc/crPmbpCq][/URL] [url=https://postimg.cc/4nLwz7Tx][/URL] [url=https://postimg.cc/Sn8rFgYn][/URL] [url=https://postimg.cc/3dk198KC][/URL]
 

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