biasi 24s overheating

[Homesafe]

Drain down system get some strong cleaner in one of the rads closest to boiler shut the rest of rads a run on heating . It should be better than it is.

 

[Homesafe]

Forgot to add drain all cleaner out an inhibit system after.

 

[karry]

Hi Newgas,

I drained it out today but did not add cleaner as most of them say "designed for new systems or less than 6 month old"

What do you recommend?

Also can someone please answer - would blocked BPV cause this even when there is some circulation.
i.e felt flow and return pipes - flow very hot and return slightly warm - I know not ideal but indicates circulation

Only options left for me to try are:
overhaul / replace BPV
Get main HE replaced or clean myself with additives to boiler

Thanks

 

[Homesafe]

I'd try. X800 or DS40 what have you got to lose?

 

[karry]

An update on the above issue.

I took off the DV which was easier than I thought it would be.

I don't know whether you can dismantle the DV from the Actuator and switch ends to take out the insides so I left it alone.

I sprayed some WD40 on the spring that pushed the pins. I cleaned / rinsed out the DV with hot water.

This seems to have made a huge difference in the sense that the burner stays on for a good 20 mins or so with CH on FULL / 80 degrees or 5 mins on HALF / 65 degrees. this is a huge improvement on burner switching off 30 seconds when the initial problem started.



However, the boiler now locks out (red LED) intermittently, especially when the washing machine is running. It can do this after several hours.

Also, the boiler reaches the requested temp very quickly (2 mins) and then burner runs on low flames for remainder of the time.

Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated?

 

[Homesafe]

Your problem is more than likely diverter stuck in dhw

I did say that.

 

[Agile]

That would have been immediately obvious if he had felt the plate HE at the beginning as asked several times!

Tony

 

[karry]

Can the DV be dismantled from the Actuator and DHW switch ends to replace the spring?

I think the DV is still not opening fully due to fact the HE seems to heat up too quickly due to reduced flow.

 

[Agile]

The spring does not need replacing.

Any problems are due to dirt.

The two components are each withdrawn from their respective ends!

However, if its moving about 9 mm then it must be operating correctly.

I dont understand what you are trying to describe and it may well be that its operating correctly.

Two simple questions, do you get good continuous hot water? Do you get central heating?

Tony

 

[karry]

good continuous hot water? Yes

Central Heating? - yes and no

Because when Dial set to snowflake and CH dial set to FULL,

the temp climbs from cold to 90 in 5 minutes.The HE makes kettling noises. The flames go low for 20 minutes or so. The burner goes off until temp goes back down to 35 degrees. Repeats the cycle. Locks out after a few hours.

Should CH temp climb so quickly if DV was letting water through HE quick enough?

so DV not letting water thru quick enough hence the eventual lockout?

Regards