Biasi 24se diaphram???

[Spen221]

Hia and thanks for looking i have a biasi 24se combi boiler which has suddenly decided it only wants to produce warm water, it doesn't make a difference whether the CH is on or not, i did take the actuator bit apart and the diaphram looks ok could it be warm or could there be another problem,
very rarely it will have a short burst of hot water but mainly just runs warm.
Any ideas apprieciated

 

[mehran]

best bet is to phone biasi and they will give you a number of one of their service agents.

 

[Spen221]

Would they send someone out or do they diagnose stuff over the phone? I really don't want to get someone out if i can fix it myself, mainly cause i can't afford to get soemone out!
The diaphram is really easy to get out if its a good possibility thats worn, I can replace that easily as long as i can find somewhere to get one from!
Cheers

 

[gas4you]

With the heating off and cold, does the flow pipe for the ch off the boiler get warm/hot when you run a hot tap?

If so sounds like a diverter valve sticking. See FAQ's on this, or call out someone to fix.

 

[Agile]

That design cannot partially stick without creating a demand for DHW, Dave.

No one can diagnose whats wrong from what you have said so far!

Tony

 

[Spen221]

I'll provide as much info as i can, I'm not a plumber or heating engineer by a long shot, give me a car to service or maybe some car electrics i'm ok....
Anyhow, I'm ok with spanner and some tools as long as nothing gas related doesn't come up, that scares me!
Everything was working fine up untill last week, then the water decided to just get warm rather than hot, there has been the odd rush of hot water but only for seconds other than that its just over luke warm, i took the rubber diaphram out of the actuator as this has been mentioned a few places on google etc etc. I held it up to the light and checked for any splits there doesn't seem to be any, before i put this back together i cleaned the slide and oiled it so the pin can move freely, then i had cold water for a while, I think this is maybe from turning everything off and getting rid of airlocks etc??? Then back to getting just warm water again, there is what appears to be copper rot around the one temp sensor near to the actuator but that is for the heating???
Any help apprieciated and i'll check what I can without taking anything direct to the gas appart, the gas lights when the tap is turned on whether the heating is on or not too, that seems to be the most common fault, why can't i just get the most common fault!!! lol

 

[Agile]

If CH works normally then its most likely to be a gas related fault! It would need the gas valve setup to be checked by a competent CORGI ( not all are! )

You have not told us a very useful aspect, what temperature does the gauge go up to on DHW?

What you can do is to measure the resistance of the two sensors cold, should be about 13k, but this is not going to be the fault!

Tony

 

[mehran]

what did you "oil it" with?

 

[Spen221]

I oiled the pin slide part of the actuator with gt85 a teflon based lubricant i use for my bike lol, hope that isn't going to do any damage.
I'm going to sound thick now but does the temp gauge tell you what the tap water runs at? Theres only the one gauge and that seems to tell me what the heating is running at.
I did manage to get a hot bath out of it earlier by running the tap very slowly, also the kitchen sink seems to run a damn site hotter than the upstairs taps??? The boiler is upstairs is gravity makes any difference?
Cheers
Spen

 

[Agile]

You have not told us a very useful aspect, what temperature does the gauge go up to on DHW?

Tony

Its not important to you what it shows but if you could tell me what it goes up to then it might help ME to diagnose what your problem is!

Tony

 

[ChrisR]

See answer about incoming temp - //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1065772#1065772