Blocked Manifold?

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Hello Everyone,

Perhaps you can help me identify what might be the problem with my central heating. The upstairs radiators behave normally but downstairs take time to get warm and don't get really hot unless upstairs are shut off. The more upstairs radiators that are switched off the hotter the downstairs ones get (mainly at the top...the bottoms can still be cool). My old boiler broke down too many times so I recently had a new one fitted. The radiator problem developed over time prior to getting the new boiler.

I've read a lot on-line so I know that you will need a lot of info to help with the diagnosis. I will set out some bullet-points below so I don't tie myself up in knots trying to tell the story.

Facts....

1. Normal two storey oblong-shaped house (approx 15 years old) with longest walls front and back.

2. Airing cupboard on landing fairly central but nearer to the front of the house.

3. Nine downstairs radiators and eight upstairs.

4. New Grundfos Alpha 2 Auto Adapt Pump fitted upstairs in airing cupboard several months ago. BG Engineer said the old one was gunged-up and recommended a powerflush. He also said I had too many by-passes in airing cupboard and recommended removing two of them. No other engineer (and many have visited over the years) ever mentioned this. I didn't take him up on his offer due to the £800 cost.

5. New W/Bosch 24Ri (Heat Only) Boiler very recently fitted in utility room downstairs. Chemical and power flush carried-out and magnetic filter fitted. I was told that system was pretty clean in any case. Took time to get all rads working as before but eventually chased the air out.

6. Sealed system. Pressure gauge normally hovers around 1 bar.

7. All radiators have TRVs except one in hall and one on landing which have normal wheel valves (another two by-passes apparently).

8. Dot and Dab walls with 10mm pipes feeding each radiator. One pipe each side.

9. I've bled radiators, checked the pins under the TRVs are free and closed the upstairs lockshields to approx half-turn from closed. I set the downstairs lockshields to between one turn and fully open depending on how warm they got.

10. Upstairs the feed pipes to the radiators get really hot really quick (as do the radiators) and the return pipes are marginally cooler. Downstairs it takes a while for the feed pipes and radiators to get warm/hot and the return pipes remain quite cool.

Assumptions....

1. Having reads lots on helpful forums like this and speaking to the guys who installed my new boiler I now think the radiators are fed via manifolds.

2. In my mind I assume that there are four manifolds. One feed and one return for upstairs and the same for downstairs.

3. If these assumptions are correct then it would seem there is a blockage in the downstairs return manifold or in the return pipe leading away from the manifold. That would mean that there is little or no flow through the downstairs radiators and the heat they eventually receive is by conduction or convection.

Questions....

1. Are my assumptions probable?

2. Given that the manifold and return pipe away from the manifold would be of wider bore than the 10mm pipes to and from the radiators, would it be likely to block whilst the smaller bore pipes remained clear? Then again, it would be too much of a coincidence if all the 10mm return pipes to the manifold had a blockage.

3. I assume the manifolds (if I have any) would be under the the floor on the landing. Is lifting floorboards the only way to find them? Are they likely to be anywhere else?

4. If my assumptions are correct, is it also safe to assume that the ground floor radiators did not benefit from the chemical and power flush?

Sorry if this story is long-winded but I'd be very grateful for any and all answers and comments that could help me resolve this issue. I probably wouldn't tackle this job myself but if I can make a reasonable diagnosis and find the manifold (if there is one) then I could save myself a lot of money.

Thanks in advance.
 
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You had the system powerflushed, but if rads are cool at the bottom, then that suggests that there could be sludge in the the rads.

If you're downstairs rads have 10mm feed and return pipes, then the water won't flow to them so easily, so you need to shut down the upstairs rads lockshields more than the downstairs ones.

Start off by setting the downstairs lockshilds to three quarters of a turn, and the upstairs ones to half a turn, and then see what happens.
 
is your domestic hot water also heated by the 24ri ?? this boiler is gonna struggle with 17 radiators and 10 mm microbore pipework. is central heating split into zones ? "Too many" by- passes could be further investigated. as doggit said above ,try balancing..but I fear you have a not very well thought out system basically.
 
And if you have D&D walls, with the pipes burried in them, then you're also going to lose heat into the walls before it gets to your rads.
 
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Well it certainly sounds like a convoluted system and very difficult to appraise remotely.

I would start by shutting down all rads except one downstairs and then opening one at a time downstairs to try and get them all hot. Then move upstairs whilst checking down is maintained. But you have a lot of rads and on microbore so some careful and exact balancing would be the first thing to attempt.
 
Hi Guys,

Thanks for the speedy replies. I've had a bit of spare time to try things so here we go......

I had already played with the lockshields last week and managed to improve things. I had set upstairs mostly at 3/8 to 1/2 whilst downstairs varied from 3/4 to fully open depending on how hot they were getting.

Today I set the four nearest the pump upstairs to 1/4 and the remaining upstairs to 3/8.

Downstairs I set the best five to 3/8 and the four worst ones I left fully open (more or less).

I switched on the heating with the boiler thermostat to the highest point and the wall thermostat also to the highest point.

All rads started to warm-up within 5 to 10 minutes.

After 20 minutes all upstairs were hot with downstairs mostly warm. The worst two in the lounge were only lukewarm.

After a further 20 minutes the downstairs were warmer still and by the time the heating had been on an hour all upstairs were very hot with five downstairs being hot/quite hot and the usual remaining four being warm.

I then started to use the upstairs TRVs to regulate things a bit as we would never have all upstairs rads fully open. After half an hour most downstairs rads were hot with the usual worst two or three being warm/fairly hot.

I then put upstairs to how we would normally have things, ie. with a few rads off completely and the others to 3 or 4 on the TRVs. After another half hour most downstairs rads were hot with even the usual very worst two being quite hot.

Without putting words in your mouths it seems the problem may be the design of the system, boiler operating at its limits, too many by-passes, small bore pipes sandwiched in the dot and dab and the need for precise balancing.

I had five quotes for a new boiler and all recommended 24kw boilers (W/Bosch or Vaillant). One guy measured all the rads and took note of the double ones and he still went for W/B 24Ri.

The guy who changed the pump and said there was too many by-passes inadvertently left the valve to the cylinder coil closed so we ran out of hot water the next day but did notice that the two worst downstairs rads that only usually got warm were now very hot.

The boiler powers the hot water as well as the heating and there is only one wall thermostat which is in the hall so no zones I guess.

At least none of you suggested a blockage yet so I'm encouraged by that.

A few questions.......

1. How far can I screw down the lockshields? Is there a minimum setting that is considered safe?

2. On the worst rads have I done the right thing in leaving the lockshields fully open?

3. Would you say I definitely have manifolds as the pipes are 10mm small bore?

4. Is the consensus that there isn't a problem as such but more just a less-than-perfect system?

Thanks again for the replies and any more comments greatly appreciated.
 
answers...
1/ locksld OK in any open position ,that keeps rad working to satisfaction . 2/ yes
3/ most likely
4/ yes
and you can try part , half maybe ,closing valve to cylinder coil and monitor dhw result..
 
It's more than likely that you'll upgrade the boiler, take out the multiple bypass valves, and still have issues. How about going for broke, take out the manifolds, and install 15mm to all the downstairs rads. If you're going to do the job, you might as well do it properly.

If you screw the lockshields down too far, it'll just push the water through the bypass valves. These have a pressure releif valve inside that only operates if the pressure gets too high because the lockshields are stopping the water flowing through them.
 
What size are the coolest rads. Is the 10mm pipe plastic. Are they the furthest from the pump.
What are these additional bypasses ?
S or Y plan.
 
Sorry but when you say the systems been flushed that's wrong cos you can't flush anything smaller than 15mm the cross sectional area of the pipe isn't large enough.It seems to me you need to bite the bullet and repipe the system with 15 and22mm pipes and get some insulation on the system whoevers been working on your beatings not been doing a good job and it all needs looking at properly.Bob
 
Many thanks to you all for taking the time to think about this problem and reply to me.

terryplumb... Thanks for your answers. The partial closing of the coil valve seems worth a shot.

Doggit... I'm sure that a total re-plumbing in wider-bore would do the trick but needless to say that won't be happening. Good point about the PRV opening if the lockshields are too tight.

Terrywookfit... Coolest rad is a double panel 1200 x 600. Next coolest is double panel 1000 x 600. Third coolest is single panel 1200 x 600. They are all amongst the furthest from the pump at one end of the house. The ones furthest from the pump in the other direction are smaller rads and they get moderately hot. The rads almost directly under the pump get hot. All upstairs rads get hot. The 10mm pipes are metal (presumably copper).

The additional by-passes were identified in the airing cupboard by one BG engineer. I can't remember exactly but I think at least one had a red wheel valve which a subsequent plumber closed down and then gave a couple of twists open whilst saying, ''That's all a by-pass needs''. I'll have a look tomorrow at a sensible hour (I've been out working very late). No other plumber/engineer has ever mentioned we have too many by-passes.

Sorry but I don't know what S or Y plan is.

dilalio... Not a fan of 10mm then.

oilboffin... All five companies that quoted for the new boiler included a flush and a magnetic filter. I believe the flush is needed to validate the boiler guarantee. The guys that fitted the new boiler had a pumping machine with what looked like a couple of filters attached. They poured stuff into it and it had pipes that went upstairs to the airing cupboard. There were also pipes from the boiler vicinity into the outside drain. The process took a couple of hours or so and they said that the system had been quite clean.

No-one has altered the plumbing ever. It is all original from when the house was built 15 years ago.

In general... We've lived with cool rads in the lounge for years but we also have a gas fire so the room has been warm as has the rest of the house (in spite of some downstairs rads not getting fully hot). With having the new boiler fitted the heating has come under scrutiny. We had four or five stone-cold rads the day after the boiler was fitted. I played around for days to get them to work and with closing the upstairs lockshields down managed to get more heat than normal into the worst of the downstairs rads. I was quite pleased with this but my wife asked, ''Why can't we have ALL the radiators HOT if we want?'' Hmm... she has a point, I thought. I put this to the boiler installers when they returned to investigate a week later and that's when they planted the seed in my mind that I had a blocked return manifold somewhere. That started me worrying that there was a problem that I might need to get fixed.

Thanks to all of your replies I now see that it's probably a problem with the system design. I can live with that in the knowledge that there isn't a blockage. Thanks for all the advice and please feel free to keep suggesting things. All the small tweaks here and there added together might help balance things out so the heat is more evenly distributed through the rads.

I'm off to bed now but I'll keep you posted on how your suggestions work-out if I'm able to put them into practice.

Cheers.
 
Sorry but when you say the systems been flushed that's wrong cos you can't flush anything smaller than 15mm the cross sectional area of the pipe isn't large enough.
Scottish Gas power flushed our system which has 10mm pipes at the rads.
 

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