Blocking up French Doors

[kevin_robson]

I have some french doors between our living room and dining room. I intend to create a stud wall to make it two seperate room. Approx width is 2.2M.

It was once obviously a solid wall, as it has had an RSJ put in afterwards to support when the french doors were put in.

Two questions:
1. Do I need building regs approval/permission to take out the doors and block up with stud wall - I'm assuming not.
2. How do I fix the upper part of the frame for the wall to the RSJ? I'm assuming it isn't so easy to drill and screw in to, or is it softer than I think? Or is it sufficient to support the wall only from the floor and sides, rather than from the top as well?

Thanks

 

[noseall]

building regs are unlikely provided you aren't altering the electrics, ie lighting or socket alterations.

i would recommend fixing to the steel though it will be tough. i managed to get my hands on some self drilling screws from a steel cladding friend of mine which are ideal.

if you cut the upright studs very snug and allow the plaster board to go onto the upper section i'm sure you will end up with a pretty solid wall with just the sides and sole plate fixed.

 

[noseall]

building regs are unlikely provided you aren't altering the electrics, ie lighting or socket alterations.

i would recommend fixing to the steel though it will be tough. i managed to get my hands on some self drilling screws from a steel cladding friend of mine which are ideal.

if you cut the upright studs very snug and allow the plaster board to go onto the upper section i'm sure you will end up with a pretty solid wall with just the sides and sole plate fixed.

 

[JohnD]

terrible terrible echo echo in in here here

 

[noseall]

oops.

 

[kevin_robson]

Thanks,
"self drilling screws " - are these really specialist or will I get them from B and Q? Is that thei technical name?

One last thing - is it easy enough to drill an RSJ? Cant say I've ever tried.

Thanks again - would prefer to get it secured at the top as well as the sides.

 

[Richard C]

Assuming you will also have an intermediate upright; this, the 2 side rails & sole plate will ensure the stud framework is rigid enough without having to fix the top rail to the RSJ. Just make sure the top & intermediate rails are securely fixed to the side rails. If you feel you want a bit of extra security, apply some liberal beads of grab adhesive to the back of the top rail when you put it up. Use dry wall screws to fix the plasterboard rather than nails & make sure you double tape the join where the board meets the existing wall.

 

[noseall]

Thanks,
"self drilling screws " - are these really specialist or will I get them from B and Q? Is that thei technical name?

One last thing - is it easy enough to drill an RSJ? Cant say I've ever tried.

Thanks again - would prefer to get it secured at the top as well as the sides.

i think the screws are called tech screws, some builders merchants do them, and i'm sure screwfix will have 'em.

r.s.j's are very difficult to drill up hill. start small with hss drill and work your way up.

 

[NS215]

i think the screws are called tech screws, some builders merchants do them, and i'm sure screwfix will have 'em.

they are indeed called tech screws and are drilled into steel very easily, i've used them lots on site and they are very good

 

[kevin_robson]

Thanks, no sign at screwfix but I will have a look around for them.

 

[noseall]

i think upvc window manufacturers/installers frequently use self drilling screws.

 

[JohnD]

I have seen self-drilling screws, though I doubt they would be much good on steel. Drill a shank-clearance pilot hole and use self-tapping screws.

 

[noseall]

I have seen self-drilling screws, though I doubt they would be much good on steel. Drill a shank-clearance pilot hole and use self-tapping screws.

you'd be surprised John, the fixings i was given are awesome. designed for fixing into upright steel columns, though probably trade only

 

[NS215]

I have seen self-drilling screws, though I doubt they would be much good on steel. Drill a shank-clearance pilot hole and use self-tapping screws.

john tech screws are designed for attaching ties to steelwork instead of using hilti nails
doubt away, tech screws are the future even through 12mm section steel

 

[JohnD]

Wow!

But I think my wrist would get tired screwing them in.