Width of studs in wall compared to door lining - important?

[JoeA]

Hello,

I am going to be putting up a new stud wall to divide a living room and hallway, with double french doors in the middle of the wall. This is the first time I have done anything like this so I am trying to make sure I understand every detail to stop things going wrong.

I am going to fit the studs into the new wall, leaving a gap, bridged by a noggin at the door height for the door opening. Then I'll fix the door lining/casing to the studs and noggin around the door opening.

I am planning on putting 12.5mm plasterboard onto the studs, and then decorating straight on top.

I realised that if I want the plasterboard to sit reasonable flush with the door casing (so the architrave will sit nicely over the gap) I need to make sure that the width of the studs in the wall is as close as possible to 25mm less than the width of the door casing (to account for the two layers of 12.5mm plasterboard). Or indeed that the door casing is 25mm wider than the studs.

I know that you can use different width studs, but is there any reason why you have to use a specific width door casing? I am planning on using a pair of Wickes french doors, which seem to come with a reccommended casing which is about 100mm wide, so do I need to use 75mm wide studs?

Or can I use 63mm studs, and use a random bit of 87mm wide wood for the door casing? The doors are 35mm thick.

Thanks.

 

[geraldthehamster]

Don't forget also to allow another 7mm-odd in total, for skim on each side of the wall.

Cheers
Richard

 

[noseall]

There are standard width casings to suit 3" x 2" and 4" x 2" studs and are easily available.

Because you are fitting double doors you are likely to need to buy either two sets of door casings to achieve the long head or find a decent builders merchants (like our local) that have plenty of spare casing legs hanging around.

The alternative to fitting a casing is to fit a door liner which will basically mean buying the correct sized ?" x 1" planed for the size of the studs you decide upon. You then fix a slamming strip on afterwards.

The old casing sizes are four and a quarter inches and five and a quarter inches. The prior being suited for 3" studs and the latter for 4" studs.

We always lay the doors on the floor (particularly if they are rebated) complete with a fitting gap. Then place the door casing along side the doors then measure the overall width of the casing. This measurement is transferred to the stud opening whilst allowing say 8mm truing gap.

You can try and be uber-cute and fit a nice straight stud up at least one side and fix directly to this stud with the casing. This leaves you with only one fitting side to pack and true-up. We would select the primary door side (not the slave door) for this.

 

[maltaron]

If you use CLS timber for the studs you can get door linings the correct width for the timber plus plasterboard & skim each side. If you are not skimming then either plane the lining to size yourself of get the timber yard to run it thro' a thicknesser.

 

[JoeA]

Cheers guys, that is helpful.

I just had another thought - my new stud wall will be 3.1m wide, but the longest stud timber you can buy seems to be 2.4m long.

Does the head plate need to be one piece? I could make it out of 2.4m and 0.7m lengths, but would this cause any problems with the wall being straight?

Cheers.

 

[geraldthehamster]

Cheers guys, that is helpful.

I just had another thought - my new stud wall will be 3.1m wide, but the longest stud timber you can buy seems to be 2.4m long.

Not from a proper builder's merchant it isn't.

If you do use more than one piece, it will be straight if you fix it straight

Cheers
Richard

 

[JoeA]

If you do use more than one piece, it will be straight if you fix it straight

Ha ha! Thanks.

 

[noseall]

You really want the header in one piece. It makes fixing simpler which is was you want ideally as fixing the header is the toughest part to fix.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

http://voices.yahoo.com/an-overview-frame-stud-wall-1449213.html

 

[geraldthehamster]

//www.diynot.com/forums/general-diy/stud-wall-how-easy-to-do-yourself.394602/#3038136

Cheers
Richard