Width of timber required for stud wall

Joined
23 Apr 2012
Messages
12
Reaction score
1
Location
Berkshire
Country
United Kingdom
Hi, first post here so please bear with me! I am going to block up an internal doorway with a stud wall. The door is out, and the frame has been removed. I can see a lintel, so thats a good start! My question is relating to the width of the CLS timber I need. The doorway is brick width (100mm), plus a bit of render and 2mm plaster coat and I plan to use sound proof plasterboard at 12.5mm thick. So if I use 63 mm wide CLS timber and screw two sheets of plasterboard to it I end up with a new width of 88mm. Which is way below the original brick width. If I use 90mm wide timber and add two sheets of plasterboard (25mm) I end up at 105 mm which is proud of the brick! I will get the whole room plastered, but what is the best way to go about this ? Thanks in advance
 
Sponsored Links
The 105mm width of the stud and board is not going to be wider than the wall and render/plaster is it?

Or use the 63mm CLS and fix another layer of 9.5mm board
 
Woody Thanks for the quick reply! I was trying to get it as close to the brick width to help the plasterer out. I was told he would prefer it that way!?
 
47x75 stud with 2 x layers 12.5 = 100mm
 
Sponsored Links
You'll get better thermal values with timber studs (with insulation between them).
Do you think this will be an issue when all of the remaining wall is masonry?

I would be more concerned with the issues of differential movement and cracking when using a timber stud against masonry.

The only way to overcome this (if you do decide to stud) is to carry the plasterboards onto the masonry by 150mm or so and dab this part of the plasterboard to the masonry.

When we did with an internal wall in a renovation last winter, bearing in mind the wall was stripped back to masonry, was to stud the opening and plasterboard the studs so that the boards finished flush with the masonry. We then dabbed the whole wall making sure that the boards fully carried the opening whilst applying dab to the existing boards - i.e. a double board sandwich over the opening.
 
Do you think this will be an issue when all of the remaining wall is masonry?

Not sure I understand your point?

The rest of the wall is poorly insulated so don't bother about the rest?


I would be more concerned with the issues of differential movement and cracking when using a timber stud against masonry.

It's not really that hard to avoid.
 
Building an opening back in lightweight masonry does not mean it will be poorly insulated does it?

I agree cracking can be avoided but it is time consuming. We build using both methods but it is more reassuring to know there is masonry across the whole wall.
 
It's a choice between working with nice clean timber, or messy mortar and block dust
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top