Blocking up Window

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When blocking up a window on the inside, is it ok for the fibolite blocks to go up to the plasterwork in the window reveal? Window cill has been removed and block work built up from there. Plaster on the sides and top of the reveal is the old thick mortar type they used in the 60s.

Or, should the plaster be broken away at the sides and top so the new blockwork makes contact with the inner leaf bricks and timber lintel above?
 
Depends on the size of the window.
At the least, in the absence of bonding the Fibolite blocks to the existing wall, a steel bracket or two screwed through to the original masonry and bedded into a mortar joint would have been better.
 
When blocking up a window on the inside, is it ok for the fibolite blocks to go up to the plasterwork in the window reveal? Window cill has been removed and block work built up from there. Plaster on the sides and top of the reveal is the old thick mortar type they used in the 60s.

Or, should the plaster be broken away at the sides and top so the new blockwork makes contact with the inner leaf bricks and timber lintel above?
Remove the reveal plaster and the corner beads or you might regret it later when you can see an outline of the window through the new wallpaper.
 
Is there any structural reason not to do it this way?

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It's not a structural problem. I've always stuck a few frame cramps in the joints on jobs like this to tie it to the wall better. As noseall said, worth getting the angle beads out. They can also go a bit rusty.
 
We've got a window that was bricked up by a previous owner (badly). It will be restored to being a window at some point in the future.

We have a hairline outline of the old opening in the plaster. Do it properly, take the plaster off the reveals AND put some screw-in ties into the edges of the old brickwork.

You'll need to remove the reveals anyway, to avoid having the cavity bridged and/or to ensure the cavity wall insulation is contiguous.
 

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