Boiler in garage - can I create an insulated corner?

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Hi
My boiler is in the garage and last winter the frost stat kicked in more than I'd have liked. Now I know it's necessary, but I'd like to reduce this as much as possible.

The garage is almost triple length with open eaves, so I was wondering how aggressively I could insulate the boiler area including frost stat. Currently the boiler is unenclosed.

It seems likely to me that I should not fit a closely fitting cupbaord and pack insulation in to virtually surround the boiler.

But what size of enclosure with 100mm insulated walls can I fit around and above it? How much free space does there need to be around the boiler, would a foot on all sides be enough? If it is room-sealed can I do this with no vents?

My other concern is the (Hep20) pipework leading to the boiler across the garage. Currently the frost stat kicks in a lot and so the pipework is kept fluid by the boiler starting up. If the boiler+stat cabinet / room is insulated then it will fire up as much as is required to keep the boiler unfrozen, but could I then suffer side effects such as the condensate or flow pipework freezing....?
 
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It seems like you have answered all of your questions correctly,

The boiler installation instructions will give you clearances from the surroundings, and whether there is a need for vents on the enclosure.

As you said, thought will have to go into the rest of the installation, because if your stat is in the cupboard with the boiler, then it will not protect any of the pipework. Could this be boxed in and insulated as well?

As for the condense pipework, this could be made bigger so freezing is less likely to occur.
 
You have not told us the boiler model. Most will be OK with 300mm all around. The pipes also need insulation but you have not said if you have any.

You mention "open eaves". Its not clear to me exactly what you mean but that seems to me perhaps something you should be closing?

Tony Glazier
 
Forget the precise model but it's a Baxi condensing boiler. The pipes have no lagging at the moment on the plastic section, only on the copper, so I'll be lagging them and, as someone suggested here, it may well be worth boxing them in too.
 
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Oh, by open eaves I mean it is a flat roof but the rafters straddle over the top of the external wall and overhang it, with direct ventilation from outside - a massive air gap, the full width of the section between the rafters.
 
Well insulate the pipes including the condensate and close the gap at the eaves!
 

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