Yes, insulation would be a good idea although there's not space to get much on there where the pipes are clipped to the wall. You'll need to find the distance between the back of the pipe and the wall in order to determine what thickness insulation to buy for there. Where the pipes pass overhead, go for 19mm thick (or even 25mm thick)
Thanks for the advice muggles looks like I’ve got about 12-13 mm space from wall to pipe also is the any good type of insulation and should I use insulation tape to join the pieces, also which type of insulation is good? Should I put the red insulation blanket on the boiler? Thanks
Absolutely, you should insulate them. You'll be heating up the garage if you don't and as garages are usually less well insulated than the inside of your house they are at greater risk of freezing if the heating is off in cold weather.
Without re-piping you'll struggle to get 19mm insulation on there...anything less is a waste of time.
The most critical pipework is 15mm on the cold main and expansion vessel...less water volume so more likely to freeze.
Although the boiler probably has internal frost protection it is worthwhile to have a frost stat in the garage in series with a pipe stat on the return pipework.
That way the boiler can circulate heated water around the bypass loop to give a little background heat to the garage.
Given the total lack of thought to insulation I'd question whether the condensate pipework is frost free.
Do not under any circumstances try and insulate the boiler itself.
Loose those gate valves on the flow and return, they contravene safety regs.
As a diy-er, I personally use thicker insulation (25mm or so) on the hot water pipes, and slice the back off with a Stanley- bit of a faff, but I think it's worth it, and tape the joints (along and across) with gaffer, or if there's thinner insulation on already, I put an extra layer on the outside, using a couple of thinner tubes opened out., but then I can get a bit over the top with such things!
Not when it's futile
I see so much insulation that's poorly fitted/undersized, it just provides a false sense of security.
Insulation should be glued along the seam and joins, proper mitreing of joints etc. Very rarely done properly.
Agree anything is better than nothing, especially if the water is moving. Although ideal, I'd be surprised if many people have seen mitred and glued lengths in place that they didn't do themselves!
Garage shouldn't freeze if it's integral and not exposed and has a well fitting external door, if the heating is off for long periods it should be drained down regardless.
Our house had a whole network of uninsulated pipes under the draughty suspended floor, the best solution is to add floor insulation and chase the pipes in on the warm side. Ie a repipe inside the thermal envelope.