Boiler overrun?

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Just looked at my mum's system, she has a potterton neataheat 10/16 20 yrs old (no, not me mum!). When the boiler shuts down the pump does too. I thought the pump was meant to keep going for a few minutes..........or am I wrong?
 
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All depends on how it is wired in and also whether its gravity or fully pumped.
Very Few where ever wired up for pump over run
 
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It's fully pumped (one 3 port valve), yes the boiler works well.

Kev...........I am aren't I? n it's all down to you and your collegues :D ;)
 
I domnt think that any varients of the Netaheats ( ignoring the later Profile called a Neta !) had any built in pump over run. Its not really needed for a very heavy cast iron heat exchanger on a lower power although it lessens the build up of lime scale in the HE.

The normal way would be for the boiler to fire and stop firing when it reaches the set temperature but leaving the pump on to circulate the water until the boiler next fires.

The only time the pump could go off at the same time as the boiler is when the time clock comes to the end of a timed period.

Start saving for its replacement.

Tony
 
Nice one Agile..................I won't bother with the wiring then :D

Start savin...............yeah, trouble is all the new boilers have heat exchangers made from old KitKat wrappers and enough sensors/stats/PCB's etc to refit the Enterprise. You might save £30 a year on gas, but you'll spend ten times that on parts and one of you lot to fit the sucker!....................or am I wrong and the is still a boiler with a heart of castiron that will happily work away for years without having a tantrum?
 
Funnily enough I was working on a system yesterday, changing a towel radiator.

The Boiler (Pott Profile) was going off each time it reached temperature, the pump stopped with it, it was taking about 10 to 15 minutes for the boiler to fire up again, the room stat wasn't ever getting satisfied either.

Microbore F.pumped system (8mm) which was a little sluggish.

Any ideas ?
 
The only way you will get high efficiency is with a low water volume and low specific heat material for the heat exchanger. Thats not cast iron!

The sensors are required to ensure the boiler works at maximum efficiency and to protect it from adverse operating conditions.

You may not know but some boilers now have plastic outer parts for the main heat exchangers!

To avoid over temp and killing the HE that needs very rapid intervention if the plastic is not to be melted. Thats mostly controlled by measuring the flue gas temperature. If thats over about 90°C then off goes the burner!

Modern boiler are very reliable as well as efficient.

If the fault is not just a temperature sensor then its the pCB but virtually nothing else fails ( on most models ).

Tony
 
Efficient yes, reliable.........perhaps??? but last as long................definately not.................n that ain't efficient .........on my wallet!
 
...You might save £30 a year on gas, but you'll spend ten times that on parts and one of you lot to fit the sucker!...
A good combi would save you about 30% compared to what you have now, in most cases that would equal around £200 - £300 a year.
There are enough good quality boilers that will happily run without problems for years, but they are more sensitive to neglect that a cast iron lump.
 
The Hamworthy Variheat has a cast iron heat exchanger. Allegedly it is 93.7% efficient. Mind you, it has problems with burners perforating and fans dying and the condensate sump choking and sensors failing...
 
The Hamworthy Variheat has a cast iron heat exchanger. Allegedly it is 93.7% efficient. Mind you, it has problems with burners perforating and fans dying and the condensate sump choking and sensors failing...
But apart from that it is a great boiler.
 

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