Boiler relocation to loft?

Unless I’m mistaken, by going with a UC, I can remove the header tank, and utilise that room gained in the loft for my servers. The header tank already sits on a nice podium which would be ideal for my gadgets. The main reason for considering UC however, was the promise of constant pressure without the need for a stupid pump!



I do quite like the idea of boxing it in, in the utility room, and it does avoid a lot of the ‘possible issues’ of putting it all in the loft.

Including the weight of an UC, which I hadnt even considered!

Though I guess a UC could happily live in the airing cupboard in place of the existing tank.
You do away with the cold water storage tank when you have an unvented cylinder and your hot water will then be at mains pressure so you need to get the pressure and flow checked before going unvented. A sealed heating system will do away with the feed and expansion tank. I had my unvented cylinder fitted where the vented cylinder was - in the airing cupboard.
 
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"Motman, post: 4140629, member: 244085"]If he's regularly topping it up, he has a leak and should get that looked at.[/QUOTE]
Checking/topping up is about once per month. He doesn't think he has any leaks. But judging by the posts on this and other central heating forums, losing pressure seems to be regular feature.
Apart from the fact that you can’t have a F/E tank with a sealed system
If you have a system with an expansion vessel, but you want to convert to an F/E tank, there's no reason why you can't. The expansion vessel won't do anything, but the system will work OK. You could remove the expansion vessel, or if it's too much trouble eg because it's built in to the boiler, leave it there.
my expansion vessel is in the loft next to the boiler but my pressure gauge and filling loop are downstairs in the airing cupboard. Perhaps your friend could have his filling loop and gauge relocated to a more sensible position?
That's a good idea, he and the installer probably didn't think of that when the boiler was put in. He's thinking of replacing the boiler and various other things, and I'll make the suggestion (if I can't persuade him to reinstate a F/E tank that is!). It won't be a combi as he's on LPG and uses an electric immersion for hot water.
 
Converting a sealed CH system to vented in order to avoid regular topping up is NOT a solution!

Inhibitor levels need to be maintained within the system water to prevent corrosion and contamination - which eventually leads to poor performance, sludge, blockages and expense!

Find the leak(s) and stop it/them.

Leak-free, sealed system is best as introduction of oxygen and other contaminants is prevented with there being no F&E or vent pipe.

If kit is in loft, put 2 filling loops and gauges in... 1 up there and one down below.
 
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Converting a sealed CH system to vented in order to avoid regular topping up is NOT a solution!

Inhibitor levels need to be maintained within the system water to prevent corrosion and contamination - which eventually leads to poor performance, sludge, blockages and expense!

Find the leak(s) and stop it/them.

Leak-free, sealed system is best as introduction of oxygen and other contaminants is prevented with there being no F&E or vent pipe.

If kit is in loft, put 2 filling loops and gauges in... 1 up there and one down below.
I agree that “Converting a sealed CH system to vented in order to avoid regular topping up is NOT a solution!” if there are leaks, which should clearly be fixed. I’m not in the trade, but topping up sealed systems comes up in conversation with family and friends, as well as regularly on these forums, and most of them don’t have obvious leaks. If water is added it doesn’t matter whether it’s via the top-up valve or automatically from an F/E tank.

Provided it’s plumbed the modern way (modern for ~ 45 years that is) boiler-open vent-cold feed-pump instead of the traditional cold fill to boiler return, which caused see-sawing.

I can see there are pros and cons with both, you pays your money and takes your choice.
 

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