Boiler replacement - requirements?

[Jim77]

Hi all
Yesterday Scottish gas condemned my old Baxi central heating boiler for cracked case (only lasted 29 years )

I got a quote from an established local company for replacement with an efficient condensing boiler - cost £1650. That seemed to me to be fairly reasonable.

A few minutes ago I got a quote from Scottish/British Gas. He says I cannot just replace the boiler as that is not allowed under current legislation. I expected SG to be a bit dearer but his price is near £4000 which includes radiator stats, cylinder stat, zone valves power flush, magnetic filters etc.

He made the point that a power flush is essential and with my current radiator valves this can't be done (Valve with inlet and outlet on one side of radiator.

Can someone please clarify my position, please?

Would I be OK going with the local installer?

Is the Scottish Gas method overkill or essential?

Comments and advice very welcome.

Thanks
Jim

 

[gas4you]

The scottish gas quote contains accurate info of the system upgrades that need to be done when replacing a boiler.

As to the price, it is the same a BG, outrageous

It's impossible to give an accurate idea of cost, but I would have thought around £2200 - £2500 + VAT would be average.

 

[bengasman]

After 30 years it is probably a good idea to replace the valves, compulsory or not, and powerflush pretty good idea too.
To give you and idea about cost: flush is about £35 per rad plus £150 on top of total for rads. supply and fit valves: about £35 per rad (not including draining and filling system.
Changing boiler depends on spec; boiler can be anywhere from £500 to £1300 with the bits and bobs that go with it, and you probably need a new gas pipe.
I can do it for this kind of money with London overheads, which makes your sg quote at least a grand too much, and no guarantee whatsoever that you get a senior engineer for that money.
Sounds like you need to get a third quote.

 

[Deleted member 105431]

whatever you do don't go with ****ish gas and their overpriced, shoddy work. Get another quote and look for a Vaillant or Worcester Bosch boiler.

 

[gas4you]

Off topic, but what has been the latest slanderous or libelous statements from group service about me in the last few months DM?

 

[Deleted member 105431]

Off topic, but what has been the latest slanderous or libelous statements from group service about me in the last few months DM?

Not heard anything recently Dave.

 

[Jim77]

Thanks for your helpful replies - well except g4y's second one

Seems then it's sensible to upgrade more than the boiler. I'm wondering if I could fit the TRvs myself to save a bit before the system is upgraded. I'll have to remove the dual valves and extend 8mm pipe to other end of rad then fit TRvs and lockshield valves.

Any hints on doing it and recommendations on best TRVs. Downstairs is concrete floor so piping is from above in trunking. I thought I could put the small bore pipes behind the radiators. ??

Thanks again
Jim

 

[gas4you]

I would recommend the Siemens trade trv's.

Very well priced, good quality and not bad looking either.

 

[bengasman]

I second that, have used them myself and happy with them.
Same goes for siemens remote controlled programmable roomstats, the rev 24 is dog's whatsits.

 

[Jim77]

My local plumbers merchant has Danfoss RAS-C2. Are these any good.

Now getting quotes from reputable local installers. Would I be better with sealed system or regular?

Thanks
Jim

 

[gas4you]

Danfoss valves are ok also. I fit them on replacement systems and Siemens on new heating systems.

Where possible a sealed system is always better. Will let the entire system perform better and last longer.

 

[Jim77]

Thanks Dave

Just had 2 quotes - one recommends a sealed system with a Worcester Greenstar 24i and the other says not sealed because I have some stainless steel pipework and it may leak with a sealed system. So he would fit a Worcester Greenstar 12Ri. Is he right about stainless?

When I queried the capability of a 12Kw boiler he explained that condensing boilers work best on limits and going up in output would be daft. Is this right?

Thanks
Jim

 

[htgeng]

Thanks Dave

Just had 2 quotes - one recommends a sealed system with a Worcester Greenstar 24i and the other says not sealed because I have some stainless steel pipework and it may leak with a sealed system. So he would fit a Worcester Greenstar 12Ri. Is he right about stainless?

Thanks
Jim

how about a broag open vented boiler?! Dare I say add the outside sensor before Dr Drivel comes along?

 

[D_Hailsham]

A few minutes ago I got a quote from Scottish/British Gas. He says I cannot just replace the boiler as that is not allowed under current legislation.

The Scottish Regulations are slightly different from the English ones.

See http://www.sbsa.gov.uk/tech_handbooks/th_pdf_2009/Section_6_Domestic_2009.pdf Section 6.3.8.

New systems have to meet certain requirement, e.g boiler interlock, room thermostats, TRVs, cylinder thermostat etc. Flushing has to be done to the boiler manufacturer's requirements. There is no requirement to fit a magnetic filter.

As for "part systems" the Scottish Regulations say in 6.3.12:

"If a heating and/or hot water system is being replaced in part, the guidance in the above clauses should be followed but only as it affects the new or replaced components of the system."

So a boiler interlock, room and cylinder thermostats and motorized valves may be required. But not TRVs as they do not "affect the .. replaced components of the system".

That just defines the minimum you should do. As others have said it might be advisable to install TRVs.l

 

[gas4you]

I don't think s/steel pipe makes anydifference.

In a standard house with the f&e in the loft, the system will be running under approx 0.6-0.8 Bar downstairs anyway, so the extra from a sealed system will not make that much difference.

If the pipes or rads are going to leak it is most likely to be when the system is chemical/powerflushed anyway.