OP,
Well done for sticking up for yourself.
1. Stopping the Bonding gutter as in the above pic is a fairly common practice. No problem when well done.
2. No way do you remove the shared chimney stack - it would be expensive.
3. No way do you remove the shared stack - its not impossible that the redundant flues might become future active.
4. No way do you remove the shared stack if its in a conservation area.
5. No way do you remove the shared stack when chimney stacks are a heritage feature that buyers of old houses delight in - it could be a selling point.
6. You dont show the upper bonding gutter up to the ridge?
7. The back gutter has been wrongly built - search some of my recent posts ref back gutters.
8. The back gutter flashing, and the stepped flashing require removing & re-doing correctly.
9. All the pointing in the pic needs grinding out to a 25mm depth.
The flashing turn should be 20mm then wedge and point or seal the full 25mm depth.
Well done for sticking up for yourself.
1. Stopping the Bonding gutter as in the above pic is a fairly common practice. No problem when well done.
2. No way do you remove the shared chimney stack - it would be expensive.
3. No way do you remove the shared stack - its not impossible that the redundant flues might become future active.
4. No way do you remove the shared stack if its in a conservation area.
5. No way do you remove the shared stack when chimney stacks are a heritage feature that buyers of old houses delight in - it could be a selling point.
6. You dont show the upper bonding gutter up to the ridge?
7. The back gutter has been wrongly built - search some of my recent posts ref back gutters.
8. The back gutter flashing, and the stepped flashing require removing & re-doing correctly.
9. All the pointing in the pic needs grinding out to a 25mm depth.
The flashing turn should be 20mm then wedge and point or seal the full 25mm depth.
