I have a Bosch WFR2866 that will not go into wash but goes direct to spin. Set the program for a wash and the water fills and instead of the drum moving at wash speed, it goes into spin speed for a while then stops. It then it goes into reverse and spins again. Seems it cant engage low speed drum drive - always spin drive. Also notice that on drain out, water drains away but drum does not move which I think it should. Drum is free to turn manually .
Bosch WFR2866 Wash Problem
- Thread starter jonherd
- Start date
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I am assuming that when the drum goes to turn it goes at full speed for a very short period then stops, possibly doing this a couple of times then stopping and emptying.
If so check the tacho on the back end of the motor is connected and that the motor plug is fitted correctly (pull it out and put it back to make sure)
If you can you could check the tacho itself as you should have continuity through it with the resisitance changing as you manually rotate the motor armature.
If so check the tacho on the back end of the motor is connected and that the motor plug is fitted correctly (pull it out and put it back to make sure)
If you can you could check the tacho itself as you should have continuity through it with the resisitance changing as you manually rotate the motor armature.
Yes sort of. The wash cycle starts with water filling then when the drum moves it goes into high speed spin for about 30-40 seconds. It then stops and some more water goes into the drum. It then spins the opposite way and repeats this through the wash part of the cycle. It appears that it is just going into spin not wash movement of the drum.
Thanks for the tip on the motor sensor - I will check this tomorrow
Thanks for the tip on the motor sensor - I will check this tomorrow
Have tried to meter the output of the motor tacho but access to it very difficult. Can I tilt the machine on its side and access via the bottom panel. Do I have to lock the drum when doing this ?
I have never removed a motor before so not sue he best way to attack this - any help appreciated
I have never removed a motor before so not sue he best way to attack this - any help appreciated
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to test the tacho it is sometimes best to remove the motor (you can check the motor brushes at the same time)
Unplug
Remove the back panel
remove the belt
The motor is usually held on by 2 bolts remove those
Motor should come free with a little effort (some have 4 bolts but most bosch have 2)
remove the motor plug
test the tacho with a multimeter across the pins on the motor plug (normally attached to the thinnest wires)
Unplug
Remove the back panel
remove the belt
The motor is usually held on by 2 bolts remove those
Motor should come free with a little effort (some have 4 bolts but most bosch have 2)
remove the motor plug
test the tacho with a multimeter across the pins on the motor plug (normally attached to the thinnest wires)
OK thanks for the tips and the motor removal method - am going to try this now
I removed the motor and then metered the pins on the connector. Pins 1,2 3 had about 2 ohms between each of them, which did not vary when spinning the motor shaft. Pins 4 and 5 varied from 2 ohm to 1 ohm and pins 6,7 varied from 23 ohms to 1 ohm when the motor shaft was spun. Pin 8 did not seem to be connected to anything?
I also checked the motor brushes whilst I had the unit out and although they are worn, there is still about 2 cm of carbon rod on each brush.
From this I can only deduce that the varying readings are the tacho and the commutator, as the motor shaft is spun and all would seem to be good in that there is some variation.
I guess this only leaves the control board which of course is fully electronic and very costly ( £250+)
Unless anyone else can suggest something, I thinks it time for a new machine as the board cost is at least 50% of the cost of a new one.
I also checked the motor brushes whilst I had the unit out and although they are worn, there is still about 2 cm of carbon rod on each brush.
From this I can only deduce that the varying readings are the tacho and the commutator, as the motor shaft is spun and all would seem to be good in that there is some variation.
I guess this only leaves the control board which of course is fully electronic and very costly ( £250+)
Unless anyone else can suggest something, I thinks it time for a new machine as the board cost is at least 50% of the cost of a new one.
Did not really solve it, as I had to buy a new machine. I came to the conclusion that the control board had gone. I removed the board and looked for obvious signs of burning or damage, but there wasn't any. Without a circuit diagram I could not fault find any further and a new board was £250, so it was a trip to the dump and a new machine purchase.
If you do manage to find out the cause of the problem then let me know OK
Thanks
If you do manage to find out the cause of the problem then let me know OK
Thanks
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