Brand New System Rad hot at top cold at bottom

[ChrisR]

I suggested that he close the lock shield and then open it one turn or more

Obviously that's a perfectly sensible suggestion. You're turning it off and on again. It often works with computers, so why shouldn't it work with heating, which we all know is a lot simpler than computers?

Actually you'd be much better of going back to the boiler and turning that off and on. Do go online to see if there's a new driver available.

Of course none of this works if you aren't corgi regd, with the right "element" on your card. That'll be the radiator version of cock-twiddling.
And remember to send off your 3 quid...

 

[Softus]

Actually you'd be much better of going back to the boiler and turning that off and on. Do go online to see if there's a new driver available.

Akcherly Chris that only works with Cold Water version 2.1 - all water versions up to and including 1.19 would crash if you turned the boiler off, and you'd have to empty and refill the system before it would circulate again.

 

[corgiman]

Actually you'd be much better of going back to the boiler and turning that off and on. Do go online to see if there's a new driver available.

Akcherly Chris that only works with Cold Water version 2.1 - all water versions up to and including 1.19 would crash if you turned the boiler off, and you'd have to empty and refill the system before it would circulate again.

So thats why when I call a plumbing tech line they ask "have to tried draining it and refilling it"

lmao

 

[Agile]

Opening the lockshields just a little adds series resistance to each rad circuit and that will "swamp" the circuit resistance of each rad and tend to equalise the flow rates.

Merely equalising the flow rates in not sufficient if the rad outputs and significantly different.

Its surprising how close I can get a system balanced in 15 minutes by setting each L/S to one turn and adding or subtracting a half turn according to if its big or small or near or distant.

Tony