Builder tiled bathroom without preping walls

[mrgazer]

Hello All

Need some of your advice on this one. My builder took on my job to re-tile all walls in my bathroom. Below are pictures of what it looks like at present.

-I have only just realised that the builder did not stripe off the old paint and just tiled it over the existing paint without even plastering the whole wall. Not sure if you can see what he has done by just looking at the picture.

-Some of the walls are internal walls, where existing tiles were located, he had taken them off and stuck some new plasterboard (and possibly plaster that part, or did not at all) and stuck new tiles with adhesive?

-Also last question, I have seen some much videos showing that when you tile, you spread the adhesive on the preped wall and start sticking tiles. Or you spread the adhesive on the tile itself and start sticking. What he has done is apply patches of adhesive on each tile roughly and then stick them on.

Does it sound like what he is doing is very dodgy and is going to cause a lot of problems for me in the long run?

I am not a professional hence I am unsure what is right and what is not right when it comes to building, am I being picky or what? But it seems like he is cutting costs and time and doing a sh!t job here?

Please if anyone could shed some light then that would be great.

Many thanks
gaz

 

[Lee@TileTown]

oh dear, sounds like the builder has dot and dabbed.......which is 100% the wrong way to tile, shame because it looks a decent job.

 

[L95]

Dot and dab in a bathroom is a sure way to get leaks. Make him redo it at his expense. If he didn't do any prep then your walls aren't waterproof.

Btw, if that stuff came out of a tub then kick him off site as he doesn't have a clue. Tubbed adhesive shouldn't be used on anything bigger than 30x30.

And it really is a shame as aesthetically it's a good job.

 

[chappers]

It is a shame as it looks great and looks like it has been set out well. There probably won't be any problems with most of it, but the wet areas will almost certainly fail in time, especially with all those jets in there.

 

[mrgazer]

Appreciate all the input. may I ask what are the procedures in terms of preping the following walls?

Non Wet area walls -

Wet area walls -

If someone could let me know what needs to be done, ie. sanded down, filler, plaster etc.. but in more detail if possible then that would be great.

 

[L95]

Non wet walls on plaster: Prime APD and then fixed using BAL CTF4 or equivalent adhesive.

Wet walls: Tanked according to instructions of manufacturer using a high quality tanking system, then tile using powder such as CTF4.

Don't plaster them as that would mean a 3 week delay to remain in lime with manufacturer guidelines (referring to BAL at least).

Adhesive should be a solid full bed. If he argues that he HAS to dot and dab then argue that you HAVE to retain payment to pay for the re medial works.

Looking pretty ain't gonna waterproof that plasterboard. Though at least he's done a nice looking job.

 

[mrgazer]

Sorry to be a pain. Could you reclarify how to prep the following walls. Sorry I am very new to this. Also to confirm I hAve a shower tray. Does it still need tanking?

-brick wall wet area
-brick wall dry area
-plaster wall wet area
-plaster wall dry area

Could you also included instructions from scratch, ie. Sanding plastering etc? as once again I am new to this and clueless to be honest.

Many many thanks
And sorry again to be a pain..

 

[L95]

Brick Wall wet AND dry area: Overboard with Hardibacker (double check with the manufacturer for exact instructions but do not just dot n dab as not suitable for hardibacker), tape joints using Fibatape and tile. Tank if you have left over from kit.

Plaster wet area: Plaster must be a minimum of 3 weeks old. Prime with BAL APD (not PVA), tank using BAL WP1 or Waterproof+ (WP+ is a Topps exclusive I think and will cover a larger area) then tile over tanking using a slowset.

Plaster dry area: Prime with APD, tile with a slowset adhesive.

Hardibacker is waterproof and doesn't require tanking but if you have excess or just want to be double sure, tank it. You don't want to be skimming the plaster unless absolutely necessary as it will mean a 3 week wait to tile.

Anyways, that's how I would go about it.

 

[mrgazer]

Really sorry.... Long day today.. Was meant to say..

-brick wall wet area
-brick wall dry area
-plaster board wall wet area
-plaster board wall dry area

Edit does it make any difference having old plaster wall or new plaster
Walls,?

Thanks ever so much again....