Built in wardrobe help?

[jimmy1999]

Hi,

I have been renovating my house over the last year and have one room left, the bedroom!

I want to make some fitted wardrobes over the entire length of one wall (which has a closed fireplace in the middle). I need to do this on a budget so may make the doors, but if that doesnt go well I will just buy some.

So I would love some advice on how to make the frame. The wall is 3.8m wide so I was thinking 7 doors 500mm wide and spliting the wardrobes into three, so three doors in the middle and two either side of that.

Is there any easy step by step guides on the internet because I have been looking for hours with no luck.

Thanks for any help would be great.

 

[foxhole]

No need for a frame.Make a plinth on the base, this allows you to correct any undulation on the floor and the do the same at the ceiling.Allowing for material thickness [18mm mdf is ideal] do the same at each end making an infill panel.This leaves you with a carcass which is square and the correct dimension for the 500mm doors [which can be purchased if budget allows, or maybe purchase a couple of mirror doors]. The inner panels, again 18mm can then be secured floor, ceiling and against rear wall with either small angle brackets or some timber baton.Then fit internals, shelving etc, 500mm ready made draws can also be purchased to fit.Hang doors, assuming full length you will need at least four hinges to take the weight.

 

[Jasonb]

As Foxhole says I would also ,make a plinth then build the wardrobe off of that. Though my method is to make it as a series of carcases (boxes) that can be positioned onto the plinth and either a face frame added or the doors hung straight onto the edge of the carcase like a kitchen cabinet, have a look at this and the next half dozen photos.

Depending on the style you are after the same method can be used for traditional or modern looking wardrobes

J

 

[jimmy1999]

Thanks for your replies, the photos are very useful. So I will make a plinth floor at the same height as my skirting boards then work from that. In terms of material would mdf be better than melamime? Do you think I need to put a back on the or should it be ok without? My girlfriend really wants some draws in the middle but is that a bit adventurous to try and make them.

In terms of doors I'm hoping to save money by just making them. I want simple shaker style and was just going to make them out of one sheet then stick the edging on but I have read this is prone to warping. How hard is it to make doors I'm not sure if I'm trying too much.

 

[foxhole]

Doors should not warp at 18mm , ensure the sheet is not warped before you have doors cut from it, if you measure accurately you should be able to get most of the sheets cut to size.Ready made draws are fairly cheap and you only have to fix runners internally to fit. If across an external wall the a back helps avoid damp inside on clothing, but it's a good idea to design in ventilation regardless.

 

[jimmy1999]

Sorry to keep asking questions but I have just be around a friends who has had some wardrobes fitted professionally. They cost a lot but look good.

The thing that is different is they are made using a frame for the front of the wardrobes then inside it is just the bedroom wall. I was thinking of going down this route as then I wouldnt loose any of the space at either end of the wardrobe as the room is a funny size. Have either of you tried to make wardrobes this way and had problems which is why you recommend the carcus method?

Thanks again for your help.

 

[foxhole]

Without carcase there is nothing to hang your clothes rails on or fit shelves and draws too.? You can leave a bare wall at the back but risks damp if it's an external wall.

 

[Jasonb]

As Foxy says re carcases

There is a slight risk of the doors cupping if you glue 6mm onto 12mm to get the shaker look. I prefer to do it as shown in this and the next pic

 

[jimmy1999]

That looks like a good way to do the doors but I only have a router and im not sure I will be good enough to cut those groves in, would you say this is quite a hard thing to do?

In terms of putting a vent in the carcase where do you think I should put it. I have been having problems with damp on one of the walls so think I will need it.

 

[Jasonb]

get a slot cutter for the router and it will be a lot easier than trying to balance the router on the edge of the MDF.

http://www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Standard_Range_63.html

For circulation you would really want to vent the plinth and somewhere at the top.

J

 

[festive]

This is just the thread ive been looking for incidentally JasonB great pics and work.

Few q's on the doors there, i dont see any frame up the middle where the doors meet centrally, when the doors close do they not flex a bit in the middle? Im sure ive missed something here, just wondered how you resolved that, not unless the doors are thick enough not to flex?

 

[Jasonb]

Well thats why my wardrobes cost £1000 per meter plus, you are paying for someone who knows what they are doing.

Of the three pictures only the ones under the sloping ceiling don't have a central support and as they are only about 1600 tall there is not much risk of flexing, 22mm MR MDF styles & rails.

The tall ones are all individual carcases behind each door, yes that uses more boards and puts the cost up but the amount of glass and thin styles makes the doors a bit whippy.

J

 

[festive]

Thanks Jasonb ive seen plenty of your work in here in the past, it's all stunning! Im sure you're never short of work or recommendations, shame you're not closer to Dorset.

Thanks for the input. Ill make them fakin wardrobes and post the pics for you to have a chuckle at MY only reservation is the cuts they need to be absolutely straight with no chipping, seen them cutting the sheets in the factory looks like they've been cut with a laser so neat. gonna purchase a new fine tooth blade for my Dewalt Circular saw, but i fear i need one of these for straight cuts...well i just want one!

http://www.tooled-up.com/ManProduct.asp?PID=160053

And the sheet cutting rail to go with it. And id still get change from a grand

 

[Jasonb]

No you need a nice big panel saw that can handle the 2800x2070 sheets with a pre scoring blade to eliminate chipping, got to get the cost of these type of machines back somehow.

Actually if making carcases you can keep the good edge to the inside of the "box" and any chipping only really becomes an issue on boards that are seen from both sides like shelves or single vertical dividers. These can be cut a little oversize and then trimmed with a router, its slower but gives a good clean edge.

Jason

 

[jimmy1999]

Hi not sure if anyone is still looking at this page but I was after some more advice. After a long time doing nothing I have finally made the frames for my wardrobes but now need to make the doors.

I am after shaker style so was going to as jasonb suggested and have thicker wood around the outside then make a slot using a grooved router bit to hold thinner wood inside.

So my question is what thickness wood shall I use, my doors will be 2020mm by 500mm. I was thinking of using 18mm on the outside the about 6-8mm on the inside. Anyone know if this sounds ok?

Finally any idea of the ratio I should do the thicker outer bit on the doors was thinking 100mm either side?

Thanks for the help.