Bypassing a light switch

[ban-all-sheds]

Ah - I see.

 

[jj4091]

It would be better to replace the switch with an unswitched f.c.u with a 3amp fuse in it.

Please explain why, and show with a diagram where the fuse would be.

I was suggesting what I think would enable the op to achieve his goal & at the same time keep a means of easily accessible safe isolation for maintenance of the outside light. The fuse would replace the switch. There are other options, this was mine. Is there a problem with doing that way?

Yes. FCUs are not used or needed on lighting circuits, as they are adequately fused. As BAS says where is the diagram? A switch has 2 connections, line and switched live. FCUs are 2 pole devices, L and N in and L and N out.

BAS understands & I can't really see why you don't, it seems quite simple & straight forward & doesn't contravene any regs that I am aware of.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I see why you said it. Not sure I understand though, given that the OP is looking for a temporary solution. Although he may only think he is - there is the question of what happens when the temporary bypass comes to an end.

A "secret key" switch would be a better idea than a fuse.

 

[Valiante]

I should have omitted both the temporary caveat and the reason, because it will most likely become permanent, and I only really wanted to know whether or not joining the wires would be safe.

So far only one person has actually answered that question, with everyone else caught up on alternative solutions (which I appreciate, even though I didn't ask for them) or opinions about my motivation (which I appreciate less).

 

[rsgaz]

If it keeps getting turned off purely by habit of people turning off switches when they leave the room, then you could move the wire from L1 to L2. This will mean that the switch is on when the top is pressed in, in the normal "off position".

Gaz

 

[JohnW2]

... I only really wanted to know whether or not joining the wires would be safe. So far only one person has actually answered that question ...

There is nothing unsafe. per se, about joining the wires - after all, that's no different from what the switch does when it is switched 'on'; if your wish is that the switch would normally always be 'on', you would therefore merely be emulating that situation. The only downside (which some might argue has some 'safety' implications) is that you would lose the ability to switch off / isolate the light etc., in the event of a fault or malfunction (other than by switching off the entire lighting circuit). Maybe a switch could be installed somewhere else, in a position where 'prying fingers' would be unlikley to interfere with it?

Kind Regards, John

 

[Valiante]

Thanks John. The downstairs lighting circuit is split into two, so it's not massively inconvenient to isolate at the fuse-board. Appreciate your response, cheers.

 

[PBC_1966]

FCUs are 2 pole devices, L and N in and L and N out.

In the case of an unswitched FCU, the N terminals are there purely for convenience though. There's nothing to stop you just using the L terminals for the fuse if for some reason you wanted to.

 

[PBC_1966]

The only downside (which some might argue has some 'safety' implications) is that you would lose the ability to switch off / isolate the light etc., in the event of a fault or malfunction (other than by switching off the entire lighting circuit).

To be balanced though, with the increasing use of RCD's a N-E fault in the light could not be isolated with a regular S.P. switch in order to restore power to the rest of the lighting circuit (and quite probably other circuits too) without disconnecting the light in question.

 

[EFLImpudence]

The answer to the original question is still "Yes".

 

[JohnW2]

The only downside (which some might argue has some 'safety' implications) is that you would lose the ability to switch off / isolate the light etc., in the event of a fault or malfunction (other than by switching off the entire lighting circuit).

To be balanced though, with the increasing use of RCD's a N-E fault in the light could not be isolated with a regular S.P. switch in order to restore power to the rest of the lighting circuit (and quite probably other circuits too) without disconnecting the light in question.

All true, but the majority of 'faults/malfunctions' are not due to N-E faults, so a SP switch would often be adequate - certainly more likely to achieve what was required than 'no switch'!

Kind Regards, John