C&M Britony Combi 100 SE

Joined
19 Dec 2008
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Location
Lincolnshire
Country
United Kingdom
Hi all, hope someone can help.
I am having trouble with my combi boiler. First it was low pressure in a morning so would have to top up and press reset. During the day the pressure would then go past 4 bar and down to the bottom of the gauge. A plumber told me it was low pressure in the pressure vessel. I have added air and now the pressure seems fine. The problem now is I have water that flows hot then warm then hot then warm. The heating is only warming the tops of the radiators then turning off. Again our local plumber said it was the PCB. This has been changed with no effect. Any ideas anyone???????
 
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The constant filling and draining of the system causes massive corrosion in the system/rads and it starts blocking stuff. In your case it would appear the plate heat exchanger and your rads are full of it.
 
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The boiler has been fitted for 5 years. It has a chemical additive which is supposed to last 5 years. All radiator were flushed when the boiler was fitted. When you try to bleed a radiator you get nice clear water. :confused:
 
You cant asses water condition from the dribble you get from bleeding. Try draining it down and having a look. The pump could be on its way out aswell but unlikely



How long were the pressure problems going on for? When the pressure reaches 3 bar its starts releasing the excess and then you have to top it up. So the protector will quicklt dissapear.
 
WOW thats constructive

damn sight more constructive than your sarcasm fella

classic symptoms

chemichal additive my ass more so if you have been filling it all the time

when you bleed a rad you get clear water

of course you do all the s h i t e is bunging the boiler up :rolleyes:

check the prv aint leaking first if it is start thinking ex vessel

and put some money aside for a new diverter valve :cry: :cry: :cry: ;)
 
I have recently removed one radiator to decorate. There is no sludge or muck in it. How do I check the boiler????
 
When you say diverter valve is that the 3 way valve??

Thanks both for the help it is appreciated :D

This is my first time in any forum.
 
I think you need a boiler repairer, not a plumber who suggests the pcb cos rads are hot at the top.
 
several posters including the one accused of sarcasm, gave you the answer: your system is full off: carp, seejijte, buffalo chippings or call it what you want.
just the fact you can't see it, does not mean it is not there
 
Get a competent firm in to power flush the central heating. Have this same firm remove the the plate to plate heat exchanger and descale it (they may connect it to the PowerPump to do this)
Expect it to take all day
Make sure your rads are accessable (ie remove furniture from in front of them)
Expect the occasional bit of noise when the guy vibrates the rads to clear the muck.
They will redose the system with inhibiter.
If you dont already have an inline descaler on the cold main inlet to the boiler have one fitted.
Might be an idea to ask for a magnatec to be fitted too, depends on whether you want to prevent the problem re-curring or not.
Provide plenty of tea and biscuits
Expect to pay £250 upwards from an indie £600 to £800 from BG
 
Today the boiler started ok and water was fine. Heating wasn't as warm as normal but otherwise was ok. Later it turned off with fault overheat sensor switch open. It then seemed to go back to working ok again only to then start spraying steam from the CH water pressure switch. What is happening???
 
I have recently removed one radiator to decorate. There is no sludge or muck in it. How do I check the boiler????

Most times I carry out a boiler change I find the system water appears quite clean and clear when draining down.

Later when I add chemicals to flush out etc, it never ceases to amaze me how much muck and sludge etc etc comes out ;)
 

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