Can anyone recommend me a quality brush for satin wood

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guys i need to paint my window frames and a new door.

People keep mentioning that a good brush is more than enough for a good finish i.e. avoiding brush strokes.

What would you guys recommend as a "good" brush

I have bought the Blue B and Q brushes which are ok but not brilliant as i still get brush strokes. I have a few doors at another premises of mine and they look beautiful i.e. no brush strokes and you can feel the wood grain. Likewise how do i achieve such results and with what specific brushs/rollers
 
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ive seen these, i dont know how they would save me from leaving brush strokes compared to the brushes i have.

Im sure there must be a technique for painting doors and window frames in order to reduce brush strokes
 
I like Purdy brushes, but that's just personal preference.

I've found that getting a good finish with oil based paints is just something that comes with a bit of experience. The only things I can think of as a guide is make sure you've done good prep, use quality primers and paints, don't overload your brush (or underload either!) and work in a logical order so that you never have an edge drying whilst you're painting a different area and you're always laying off with the grain and back into the wet area. Nothing groundbreaking, it's just getting a feel for it and finding what works for you.

Oh, and make sure you buy a good brush! ;)
 
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verbal thanks for the reply, the question is what brush. Robbie recommended the Hamilton brushes but they are very similar to the ones i already have

Ive currently put on a coat of wood primer/undercoat by dulux which is supposed to be some good stuff.

Since it is peeling off a little when sanding shall i now add a coat of satin wood and rub that down a little topping off with a final coat?
 
Well you mention a B&Q brush, I'm not sure what they look like, but even if they appear similar to the Hamilton ones I'll bet they're nothing like as good. If you're not convinced then I can fully recommend Purdy brushes. I like to use the Monarch Elite for oil based paint, although some like the stiffer Pro-Extras. You should be able to find them in your local paint merchant or at the moment Dulux Trade Centres are stocking box sets on discount.

As for the primer, when you say "peeling", do you actually mean peeling, like in flakes? If so then there's a problem somewhere, either with the surface or the primer itself. Was the wood free of any contaminants and the primer stirred/shaken really well?

If you mean you're just sanding through back to the bare wood then you're just sanding too much with a too low grade of paper. Recoat and then rub down gently with a higher grade. Remember, you're only gently roughing the surface to provide a key for the next coat. Once you've got a full coat then go ahead with two coats of satinwood. Just don't apply that to any bare wood.

Hope that helps.
 
kilo have you got yourself some acrylic undercoat primer becauase it is hard to get no brush marks with acrylic paint .

acrylic paint is never as good as oil based paint and never sticks to old paint as good so thats why it might be flaking.

carl
 
Well you mention a B&Q brush, I'm not sure what they look like, but even if they appear similar to the Hamilton ones I'll bet they're nothing like as good. If you're not convinced then I can fully recommend Purdy brushes. I like to use the Monarch Elite for oil based paint, although some like the stiffer Pro-Extras. You should be able to find them in your local paint merchant or at the moment Dulux Trade Centres are stocking box sets on discount.

As for the primer, when you say "peeling", do you actually mean peeling, like in flakes? If so then there's a problem somewhere, either with the surface or the primer itself. Was the wood free of any contaminants and the primer stirred/shaken really well?

If you mean you're just sanding through back to the bare wood then you're just sanding too much with a too low grade of paper. Recoat and then rub down gently with a higher grade. Remember, you're only gently roughing the surface to provide a key for the next coat. Once you've got a full coat then go ahead with two coats of satinwood. Just don't apply that to any bare wood.

Hope that helps.

verbal, its not flaking off. I meant when i was sanding it.

Regarding the sanding itself, im not put too much pressure on to be honest however I was attempting to "flatten" the brush strokes. Could this be the reason why its messing up?

The BandQ brushes btw come in several categories. These blue handles ones are i think the best in their range and to be honest they are very solid in terms of brissles not falling out quality of grip
 
kilo have you got yourself some acrylic undercoat primer becauase it is hard to get no brush marks with acrylic paint .

acrylic paint is never as good as oil based paint and never sticks to old paint as good so thats why it might be flaking.

carl

Thewaltons, the "paint" in this case is Dulux 2in1 wood primer undercoat which is water based. Its not flaking off itself, it just peels with not much effort with 120 grit paper
 
thats why its hard for you not to get brush marks. i would only use waterbased if the job is a rush job some people may not agree but its not as hard wearing than oil based paint the oil based paint sinks into the wood alot better, with water based paint i noticed it just sits on the top of the wood thats why you may be having the problem with it peeling its best to just give it a light rub and dont go to mad with the sand paper.
 
however with the satin wood being oil based do you that would sink and add some robustness to the whole paint layer over the bare wood?
 
As a decci of some 30 odd yrs I'm just coming to terms with using nylon fillament. I can't seem to find a decent pure bristle brush nowadys, used to be a joy to use a pure bristle with enough stiffness to push the paint where I wanted it to go yet fine enough tips for fine laying off. This last yr I am trying out Purdy pro extra. the elite I couldnt get on with seemed to take ages to do a door. The pro xtra are going well can do a panel door in minutes just like the old brushes. Using gloss, undercoat or satinwood.

The waterbased undercoat.. The old surface (gloss?) has to be abraded more than oil undercoat, and washed. Agree you can still scratch off w/b unders (it takes 8 days to gain full scratchability) well so a rep told me lol.
. I just gently sand over to de nib, when gloss goes on it all dries ok (scratchproof) been using it for years no probs.
If your using satinwood you dont need undercoat/primer (unless it's bare wood) On bare wood it should be thinned anyway to let it soak into wood.
Have you tried thinning primer u/c a little ?
Basicly when you paint i.e a door. Apply paint in three sections, work the paint over the !st top section working side to side
now lay off that section going from side to side. then lay off again going from bottom to top.
fill in the rest and finish by laying off from bottom to top. of course all this is done quicker than you can read this lol. but basicly to get rid of brush marks.. apply evenly.... lay off one way first ... then lay off with the grain to finish... But if paint is too thick it wont flow out.... ..

oh dear ive gon on a bit :LOL:
 
really like the angled brush he uses, looks real nice for cutting in.

Are there any similar in places like west yorkshire i can buy?

Sould be available at a decorator merchants? Though I never used the angled type.
 

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