Can expanding foam be used on a cold spot

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We have a coverted garage and around the window is freezing compared to the rest of the room. The builder put cavity battons in but just under the window it still seems cold.

Is it possible to drill a hole in the outside leaf and squirt foam into the cavity in a few places OR will this cause damp?

thanks lads
 
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This one https://www.abbuildingproducts.co.uk/black-waterfall-expanding-foam-pr-5204.php is advertised as usable for directing water flow in ponds, so I'm guessing that it's probably a reasonably effective barrier against the passage of water..

You're probably looking for a closed cell foam.. I believe, though am not certain, that regular gun foam is open cell

Ultimately I think your solution is worth a try because:

Do nothing, area stay as cold and becomes a condensation magnet, gets damp, goes mouldy, gotta rip it off and do again
Do foam, doesn't work, promotes damp behind, goes mouldy, gotta rip it off and do again

Nothing to lose
 
I'm not clear what the problem is and what the proposal is. What does around the window is freezing mean? The wall, the room?
 
I suspect that freezing is used in the sense of what my significant other says when she enters a room that is only 20 degrees centigrade and she only has 3 jumpers on

Incidentally nib, I thought you were going through from the inside rather than the outside. If you're looking to fill a cavity between eg plasterboard and the outer brick it'll be a lot easier and quick to do it internally
 
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Sorry to explain better. The new wall that has been built in what was the garage door space is really cold to the touch (the internal plasterboard) it also seems draughty. My idea was to drill through the outer (brickwork) into the cavity at regular intervals and squirt foam into the cavity (between the brick and blocks). Would think help or cause more problems than it solves?
 
Walls will appear cold, and that's actually a good sign that you are heating the room not the wall.

There is always cooler air moving by windows and the wall adjacent.

Wasn't the cavity insulated when built? Adhoc squirting of foam could lead to damp and uneven coverage which can then lead to condensation issues.

The other possibility is draughts behind drylined plasterboards.
 
Walls will appear cold, and that's actually a good sign that you are heating the room not the wall.
.

Nonsense. Leave a block of kingspan and a block of metal in your lounge overnight. Now touch both; which feels colder?

A well insulated surface will feel warmer to the touch than a poorly insulated one. If all the other surfaces in a room feel warm and an area feels cold then that is where heat is being lost (ie you're heating the wall in the cold spots)
 
Yes. Go touch the metal door handle of your insulated composite front door with one hand, and the centre of a sandwich panel on the door with the other and tell me which is warmer..

If you have a window where one pane is triple glazed and one is double (or a double and a single), touch them simultaneously and tell me which is warmer

Every building material has a thermal conductivity coefficient. A temperature gradient builds up across the material and this causes heat to flow. Highly conductive materials flow heat at a greater rate and will feel cooler. If your walls are warm it means the heat from the air that has warmed the surface of the wall hasn't flowed through it and gone to the world.
 
I see.

So internally insulated walls will feel warm.
Walls with the insulation in the middle will feel just as warm
Externally insulated walls will feel equally warm as the heat passes through.

It presumably follows that walls with no insulation must then feel cold even though the heat from the room is warming the wall?
 
So you could put it another way if any surface feels cold, that means the cold from outside is absorbing the heat rapidly, so any cold surface is loosing heat and not retaining it, if it retains heat, it would feel warm.

Insulation stops the transmission of heat, thereby not allowing the cold to absorb any heat. Even though you have cold on one side and heat on the other, due to the nature of things, heat energy always tries to even out with its surrounding to same temperature on both sides, Once the temperatures even out, no more heat conducts.
And even though it may be cold, relative to absolute cold it is still very hot. Absolute cold is -273.15C, so if you were freezing at -10c, you are still quite warm compared to someone in a room at -273C
 
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It depends where you feel the wall; the heat from the room passes out to the world through the wall. How quickly it does so is a function of how good an insulator the wall is. If it's a poor insulator it conducts heat away quickly and will forever feel cool, if you're on the inside.. If you've been standing out in the freezing cold for a while and your fingers have gone numb, then putting them on the uninsulated wall will leave you with the impression that the wall is warm

There's a temperature gradient across most things, even the room air itself. The fire is arguably hundreds or thousands of degrees, yet you don't burst into flames. The temperature of the air surrounding the fire is hot, the air particles slam into each other with great energy, and the energy radiates away from the source like moving through a crowd. Imagine skateboarding through a busy street, relying on the momentum from a single push at the beginning, every time you bump into someone you jostle them along in some random direction, but you lose some of your own energy til eventually you're just moving around randomly at the rate people can slam into you from various directions. Good heat conductors like metal are like everyone being in neat rows and every slam moves you along in a progressive direction with a good amount of pace. Insulators don't do a good job of transmitting the jostling so a large commotion can build up on one side of the city and you're not affected on the other. While the side of the insulator touching the heat source will feel warm, the other side feels cool

If your wall is composite insulator and conductor, the final temperature of the conductor part depends on where the insulator is. If you put kingspan on the inside, the temperature drop across the kingspan means the room at 20, not much of the 20 gets through the wall, it then reaches a material that quickly conducts it away to the world at 0 and while the middle of the brick might be at 1 or 2 degrees the outer will be at 0 and this is how the gradient is shaped, 20 down to 1 across the kingspan and 1 down to 0 across the brick

Put the insulation on the outside and the gradient will still form the same, the fire will spend a long time heating the brick and the brick will eventually come up to nearly the temp of the room so the gradient is like, 20 to 19 across the brick, and 19 to 0 across the kingspan. If there is no kingspan the gradient across the brick includes some of the room air too (actually, it would with the kingspan but I've simplified that out) so the gradient across the brick is 1 down to 0, because it's that good at conducting heat, so it's the few inches of air next to the wall that have to accept the gradient of 20 to 1 forming across them. This causes them to cool and starts a convection draught, and it causes the surface of the wall to feel cold. This is also why there are often concerns with insulating old walls internally.. Cooling the wall to the point where condensation will form on the inner surface of the brick can lead to damp problems. Conversely insulating the outside and leaving the heating going will warm the brick well above dew point and the temperature gradient across the kingspan includes the temp where condensation forms. As no moist air can get into the kingspan and be there at the point the temp hits the magic number, no condensation/damp occurs

It's important to note that even an insulated wall can feel cold if you've only just turned a heat source on. All that I've discussed to now regards touching door handles and insulated door panels assumes a steady state of the heating having been on for x time and the temperature gradients have had chance to establish and become steady in their heat flows
 
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