Can I bend this pipe? What's my best solution
- Thread starter sean oc
- Start date
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You'd have to be king kong to bend that to where it needs to go.
You would also snap the pipe and not have enough length by the looks of it.
Extend the pipe above the floor (will look crap)
Best - lift the boards and extend from there.
You would also snap the pipe and not have enough length by the looks of it.
Extend the pipe above the floor (will look crap)
Best - lift the boards and extend from there.
If you try and bend it that much without a spring in it you'll kink it for sure and maybe snap it. Can't see how much height difference there is, if the valve is too low then you're out of luck- you'd have to drop the rad a bit to match the pipe.
Lifting floorboards will be dull cos you'll have to lift the laminate first.
Me I'd use a pipe bender to make a couple of offsets, drain down, cut a bit of the pipe upstands off, solder offsets on, cut to length, done. But you'll need a pipe bender, blowtorch, tube cutter, solder, flux etc etc. Still probably cheaper than paying someone to do it if you fancied a challenge
Lifting floorboards will be dull cos you'll have to lift the laminate first.
Me I'd use a pipe bender to make a couple of offsets, drain down, cut a bit of the pipe upstands off, solder offsets on, cut to length, done. But you'll need a pipe bender, blowtorch, tube cutter, solder, flux etc etc. Still probably cheaper than paying someone to do it if you fancied a challenge
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The following assumes you don't want to lift the floor and that you can solder. Measure up vertical and horizontal distances required.
1. Get some street elbows. I'd suggest 4 off BES 22986.
2. Make sure pipes have no water in them.
3. Remove valve from pipe and attach to radiator.
4. Elbow over pipe with plain leg coming out perpendicular to wall.
5. Second elbow over plain leg of first heading to radiator.
6. Trim first plain leg to length as necessary to keep parallel to wall.
7. Trim second plain leg as necessary to fit into radiator valve.
8. Solder up.
If the end of the existing pipe is too low down to match into radiator valve, trim it further down and use a straight couple and a short length of pipe to raise the end to the correct level.
1. Get some street elbows. I'd suggest 4 off BES 22986.
2. Make sure pipes have no water in them.
3. Remove valve from pipe and attach to radiator.
4. Elbow over pipe with plain leg coming out perpendicular to wall.
5. Second elbow over plain leg of first heading to radiator.
6. Trim first plain leg to length as necessary to keep parallel to wall.
7. Trim second plain leg as necessary to fit into radiator valve.
8. Solder up.
If the end of the existing pipe is too low down to match into radiator valve, trim it further down and use a straight couple and a short length of pipe to raise the end to the correct level.
If you try and bend it that much without a spring in it you'll kink it for sure and maybe snap it. Can't see how much height difference there is, if the valve is too low then you're out of luck- you'd have to drop the rad a bit to match the pipe.
Lifting floorboards will be dull cos you'll have to lift the laminate first.
Me I'd use a pipe bender to make a couple of offsets, drain down, cut a bit of the pipe upstands off, solder offsets on, cut to length, done. But you'll need a pipe bender, blowtorch, tube cutter, solder, flux etc etc. Still probably cheaper than paying someone to do it if you fancied a challenge
Cheers, had similar done in another room a while back so will get someone to solder above laminate
Had similar last time bit opposite way
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Does the pipe feel quite loose in the floor moving in and out within the space that's cut into the floorboard as it is? If so you may be able to drill/cut out the floorboard more and the pipe may move outwards towards the centre of the rad.
All depends how much play is in the pipe under the floor and where the pipe is coming from of course.
All depends how much play is in the pipe under the floor and where the pipe is coming from of course.
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