Can i block these off?

[5oysterman2]

Afternoon guys, looking for more advice please.

I did post about the inside of house in relation to where these outside vents/holes are, because i wasn't sure whether i had a damp/condensation problem or both.

Are these here to bring air into the cavity or can i block them up?

The 2nd photo is not very clear, but that is the plasterboard (i think) on living room wall. I'm sure that shouldn't be that open, should it?

I found a damp area more or less where it hits the plasterboard & lot's of condensation nearby. Could that be the cause of damp patch?

3/4/5 photo, what's it's purpose? The outside aerial cable goes in there & up a conduit to living room. You can feel a draught from where the cable comes out of wall.

Any ideas much appreciated

 

[Wayners]

Vents are for gas burning appliances.
You have any that needs vents?
Thermalite blocks I use on inside for the insulation. Don't want cold spot.
Bricks or concrete block outside.

 

[5oysterman2]

Vents are for gas burning appliances.
You have any that needs vents?
Thermalite blocks I use on inside for the insulation. Don't want cold spot.
Bricks or concrete block outside.

We have a living flame gas fire in the same room, that discharges to the chimney. The flu hasn't been inspected thou.

Would that change what i can do?

 

[tell80]

OP,
If you have a suspended floor then any Air Brick below the FFL must remain open to provide venting for the floor.
Any air brick or vent terminal above the FFL is often used to supply make up air for a gas appliance that requires make up air. There are other possibilities so:
Why not get an opinion from a GasSafe for your situation?

 

[5oysterman2]

OP,
If you have a suspended floor then any Air Brick below the FFL must remain open to provide venting for the floor.
Any air brick or vent terminal above the FFL is often used to supply make up air for a gas appliance that requires make up air. There are other possibilities so:
Why not get an opinion from a GasSafe for your situation?

Hi tell80, don't know what FFL means. We have concrete floor thou. GasSafe is a option too.

 

[Wayners]

Look up the fire online and see what fitting instructions says says regarding vents.
Take from there
Carbon monoxide detector is a must

 

[5oysterman2]

Look up the fire online and see what fitting instructions says says regarding vents.
Take from there
Carbon monoxide detector is a must

Cheers Wayners, will have a look. Got detector in same room.

 

[tell80]

OP,
you dont seem able to google FFL so why should you trust yourself where gas is concerned?
Dont pennypinch get the GasSafe and show him/her the pics above.

 

[RandomGrinch]

you dont seem able to google FFL

I'm sure the OP will be happy with their "Federal Firearms License"

 

[5oysterman2]

OP,
you dont seem able to google FFL so why should you trust yourself where gas is concerned?
Dont pennypinch get the GasSafe and show him/her the pics above.

tell80. I can Google quite readily thanks. You should have made it a bit clearer to me, as for gas never have anything to do with it.

What makes you think I trust myself where it's concerned?

 

[Burnerman]

Ideally the fire installer would have conducted a 'spill test' - in other words the efficiency of the chimney concerned.
For natural flame appliances the output has to be externally vented if over 5kW - my own new LPG installation with an output of 4kW max relies on normal draught within the room.
Ideally large appliances draw their combustion air from outside, to prevent a gale in the room.
I would recommend the testing of any oxygen depletion sensors if they are fitted within the fire....these shut off the gas if the flue isn't drawing well and this is sometimes likely if the air in the flue is cold and dense.
I'd certainly block up the cable holes though!
John

 

[Nige F]

tell80. I can Google quite readily thanks. You should have made it a bit clearer to me, as for gas never have anything to do with it.

What makes you think I trust myself where it's concerned?

Well said. FFL is finished floor level. Tell would rather tell you off than tell you a straight answer, bless him.

 

[5oysterman2]

Ideally the fire installer would have conducted a 'spill test' - in other words the efficiency of the chimney concerned.
For natural flame appliances the output has to be externally vented if over 5kW - my own new LPG installation with an output of 4kW max relies on normal draught within the room.
Ideally large appliances draw their combustion air from outside, to prevent a gale in the room.
I would recommend the testing of any oxygen depletion sensors if they are fitted within the fire....these shut off the gas if the flue isn't drawing well and this is sometimes likely if the air in the flue is cold and dense.
I'd certainly block up the cable holes though!
John

It was installed before we bought the property. Found the instructions for fire & no purpose built ventilation is required. It has an oxygen depletion sensor on it, can't seem to find out in the instructions how to test it out thou.

 

[Burnerman]

It’s beyond my remit to test for oxygen depletion I’m afraid, all I know is that the flame goes out which closes the thermocouple on the gas valve.....common enough, that one and it’s obvious if the thermocouple is working ok.
For sure, I’d tend to rely heavily on CO detectors and have two installed in the recommended positions.
John