Can I sheet and skim a lowered tongue & groove ceiling?

[1john]

pull down the t&g, if the joists are on 400 centers then good, if you want to be posh then fix noggins where the board joins are. before boarding why not jam a load of rockwool up there? reboard in 12.5mm screwed to joists (and noggins if you bothered with them), scrim all the joins , board upto the ceiling keeping the wall boards tight to the ceiling boards and scrim the corners, get your skim on with two coats of multi finish

 

[roughcaster]

Nice one John!!!

 

[doogyscoot]

Thanks, looks like the joists are a shade over 500mm between centres. The room is about 1750mm wide so I'm thinking of just getting 1800x900 sheets and shaving a little off one end so I can just run them right across and don't need to stagger them.

Any advice or thoughts on the suggested boxes?

 

[1john]

Interesting reading, I might have a look at doing it myself and just getting it skimmed. How close together do the spars on the lowered ceiling frame need to be to allow plasterboard to go up securely without starting to flex?
I find the idea of leaving T&G on for the extra insulation quite appealing though as we are ground floor in a tennement... What timber width and thickness is ideal for this?

Also, If anyone can help me out with another query along similar lines...
I have plans to put in a concealed Cistern and frame for a wall hung toilet then sheet it. I'm asssuming tile backer board would be ideal for this job? Or should I build a timber frame around the frame itself and fit sheeting to this?

Finally, I will be building a bulkhead on the opposite wall to fit a wall hung basin to, it will be app 85cm high, 60cm wide and 20cm deep and obviously need to support the weight of the basin. Should 2x3 be ok for this with some extra noggins to reinforce the fixing area of the basin. I'd expect to screw this to the wall and floor. Would it be appropriate to build the box frame seperately then fit it to the wall afterwards?

Sorry... maybe I should just post this as a seperate query...

Thanks again.

3x2 is fine, I would agree on all you have stated there, i like a bit of ply over boxings if they are taking weight, it's a cheating way of adding triangulation. You MUST leave access for the cistern, also, imagine you need to work on it, leave space to get in there and work on it. As for attaching ply, if you use some D4 glue on the timber before screwing it up this will be excessivly strong.

Now over boarding for tiles is another matter and one which is best asked on the tiling forum unless RichardC reads this post, he will need further advice on what tiles (size material & weight) you are planning to use though, just to prepare you!

Good luck, please keep us posted with progress and the cheeky picture or three never goes amiss

 

[doogyscoot]

3x2 is fine, I would agree on all you have stated there, i like a bit of ply over boxings if they are taking weight, it's a cheating way of adding triangulation. You MUST leave access for the cistern, also, imagine you need to work on it, leave space to get in there and work on it. As for attaching ply, if you use some D4 glue on the timber before screwing it up this will be excessivly strong.

Now over boarding for tiles is another matter and one which is best asked on the tiling forum unless RichardC reads this post, he will need further advice on what tiles (size material & weight) you are planning to use though, just to prepare you!

Good luck, please keep us posted with progress and the cheeky picture or three never goes amiss

Will try and throw a pic up tomorrow... This bathroom refurb will be the death of me, it has so many overlapping elements of the job trying to figure out a sequence for the work is literally driving me up the wall.
I'm thinking I will use self drilling metal screws to fit 12mm ply to the frame then overboard this. The cistern will be geberit or grohe which both allow access to the cistern for servicing through the flush panel anyway. I've not much experience of plumbing so I'll need to look into some tutorials about how to plumb in the soil pipe and sink monoblock. I guess it will just be a case of getting the right fittings.
Tiles will probably be mosiac sheets so I may leave an access panel for the sink plumbing which can be removed by scraping out the grout around a section of tiles and popping it off?
Thanks again, I suspect this thread will help to answer a lot of questions I have

 

[stevethespreader]

pvaing boards work for me

using pva on boards is an unnecessary process, unless they have been painted or damaged

 

[1john]

if you pva or D4 the surfaces to be joined you can just use drywall screws to attech the ply (you will have them left over from the ceiling boarding, a box of 1000 from toolstation costs the same as a box of 10 from wickes (not leterally, but close enough) on the sections that dont need to be accessed again.

On the areas that will need acces then the mosaic sheet idea is a good one in regards to gaining access in the future, if you put a peice of tape over the screw heads to stop them getting filled with adhesive and grout.

 

[Richard C]

I have plans to put in a concealed Cistern and frame for a wall hung toilet then sheet it. I'm asssuming tile backer board would be ideal for this job? Or should I build a timber frame around the frame itself and fit sheeting to this?

If boarding out you will still need to fabricate a timber frame to support the boards; 32 x 19mm sawn is adequate if no other weight is involved. For the boards themselves; as it’s not a wet area & not required to support any weight, 12.5mm MR plasterboard will do it. You can tile straight onto this but if you want a plaster finish, MR board must be primed first.

Finally, I will be building a bulkhead on the opposite wall to fit a wall hung basin to, it will be app 85cm high, 60cm wide and 20cm deep and obviously need to support the weight of the basin. Should 2x3 be ok for this with some extra noggins to reinforce the fixing area of the basin. I'd expect to screw this to the wall and floor. Would it be appropriate to build the box frame seperately then fit it to the wall afterwards?

Installations will vary depending on the wall construction & the wall hung basin but I would build out from the wall first then fix the basin. For the bulkhead, I usually use standard 4 x 2 studding but 3 x 2 should be OK. Some basins come with support brackets but if not I would advise you fabricate a pair to provide additional support. I make them from lengths of galvanised steel bar (25/30 x 5/6mm or thereabouts) which you can get in B&Q, fix the brackets to the face of the studding & burry them in the plasterboard; you cant see them unless you poke your head under the basin. Again I’d just use MR PB as the timber structure gives it the strength or you could use cement based backer boards. The only place I will use ply in a bathroom is for the floor. Being a timber product, even WBP ply isn’t dimensionally stable unless it’s very thoroughly sealed & will expand & contract depending on moisture content which is not good for a tile base.

Use only quality trade adhesive/grout correct for the job not the cheapo DIY stuff; check out the tiling forum sticky & archive before you start, it may save you making expensive mistakes if you get it wrong.

 

[doogyscoot]

Cheers mate, will have a think about that then. I just thought it would be best to shet straight on to the toilet frame using self drilling metal screws as I'm trying to minimise the frame protrusion out from the wall.

 

[1john]

I just thought it would be best to shet straight on to the toilet frame

go in the pan, it works better that way

 

[doogyscoot]

It might take a wee while to get it boxed in and fit the pan, you never know when you might get caught short

 

[Richard C]

 

[Richard C]

I just thought it would be best to shet straight on to the toilet frame using self drilling metal screws as I'm trying to minimise the frame protrusion out from the wall.

Sorry things not clear, didn’t realise it was a concealed cistern; if you’ve already got a metal toilet frame you don’t need the timber one.

 

[1john]

But Richard, it soooo much more fun creating one and making sure everything lines up when you slide the pan in..... not!