Can you paper over that tiling on a roll wallpaper?

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A friend asked what to do with her dated kitchen wallpaper, I haven't too much time
to spare so thought maybe paper over it, it isn't heavily embossed. Was thinking give it
a good wipe down but not sure if you have to put a coating over it first, maybe PVA or something?
Then paper with anaglypta type paper then paint it. Will the PVA react with
the wp paste? Thanks
 
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It can be done if the existing surface is relatively smooth and the paper is not going to peel off. Any cracks or lumps in the wall will show through. Ordinary wall paper paste should work if the surface is dry and damp free.

It might be tidier/easier to paint over it.

Blup
 
I can't help thinking it would be easier just to get up earlier and remove the old paper - I envisage problems if you don't.
 
So...would you size it first? or will that cause a problem like paper wont absorb the size very much so new paper gets a bit saturated?
 
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No you pronounce it laz- zee but yeah maybe i'm getting that way sometimes lately. I just think lifes too short and i think it will
look ok, I've got better things to do tbh ;/
 
I pronounce it lay-zee.

It's not that hard to remove wallpaper, putting various solutions over the old paper, and waiting for that to dry, and the risk of some horrible reaction happening, will only slow things down anyway.
 
So...would you size it first? or will that cause a problem like paper wont absorb the size very much so new paper gets a bit saturated?

Generally, you only size walls to reduce the level of suction (read: absorbency). If they are tile effect wall paper, I would not expect them to be absorbent.

I too would recommend stripping the old paper. I have applied lining paper over existing wall paper in the past but sometimes the adhesive causes bubbles that will not shrink back.
 
All stripped, scored it with box cutter knife about 15cm strips and slowly peeled away mostly in one pieces. Backing paper
scraped off with a sniff of a damp sponge.

Next challenge is 5 imitation dark sapele doors, looks like they have some kind of plasticy water proof finnish.
Obv need a good sanding first for a paint key. She wants them a silk white wb finnish. Now I do not want to have to use
a piddling paint brush, I have a set of 100mm foam rollers that I want to use. What sort of primer/undercoat should i need?
Can I use any of the white silk paint (leyland contract) I have left over from painting the ceiling to build the undercoat? Many thanks
 
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Next challenge is 5 imitation dark sapele doors, looks like they have some kind of plasticy water proof finnish.
Obv need a good sanding first for a paint key. She wants them a silk white wb finnish. Now I do not want to have to use
a piddling paint brush, I have a set of 100mm foam rollers that I want to use. What sort of primer/undercoat should i need?
Can I use any of the white silk paint (leyland contract) I have left over from painting the ceiling to build the undercoat? Many thanks

You can use a sponge roller and the silk paint but it will look like chite. And for the rest of eternity, if anyone runs their finger nail over the surface, it will scratch off.
 
You can use a sponge roller and the silk paint but it will look like chite..
How so? What will happen? If i brushed it on would it give a much better finish? Or
maybe i have misunderstood you. The paint(s) were recommended by the indy paint shop :confused:
 
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How so? What will happen? If i brushed it on would it give a much better finish? Or
maybe i have misunderstood you. The paint(s) were recommended by the indy paint shop :confused:

If the doors are "plastic" you will need an appropriate primer. Leyland contract vinyl silk is not an appropriate primer. I would be very concerned if a supplier recommended using it as a primer.

A foam roller will generate air bubbles in the finish coat. Those bubbles will eventually burst. If you use a thick waterbased paint, the craters will be more visible. You can use the roller and then run a brush over the paint. Alternatively you can use a short "nap" (read: short pile) roller.

Personally, I hate woodwork that is painted with rollers. I want the brush strokes to run along with the grain, but that is me.

If the doors are some kind of vinyl, it might be prudent to use a shellac based primer such as Zinsser BIN after you sand a key. They aer alcohol based paints and dry very quickly. You will need a bottle of household Ammonia (approx £2) to clan the brushes and rollers. Never use foam rollers with shellac paints, they quickly double in size and go floppy. The paint smells of alcohol until it dries. After 20 or 30 minutes, there is no smell.

If your friend wants a silk like waterbased finish, consider either waterbased eggshell or waterbased satinwood. The eggshell is the more matt of the two.
 

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