Can you use block partitions on upper floors?

[STREET TRIPLE]

Hi Everyone
Sorry for the Noob DIY question...
In our new cottage dating from the 1700, "in theory" could we knock down the horrible stud partition walls and replace them with more solid block partitions. All this is for the upper floor bedroom walls, none load bearing.
Thoughts are what / how do you foot the blocks. Can you go directly on top of the floor boards?
Else we are looking at stud partitions with some 12mm ply.
Any thoughts really appreciated.
TISA

 

[endecotp]

Is the building listed?
What is particularly "horrible" about the current walls?

 

[Newboy]

Hi Everyone
Sorry for the Noob DIY question...
In our new cottage dating from the 1700, All this is for the upper floor bedroom walls, none load bearing.

Are you certain that they aren't load-bearing? - timber spans for the joists would have been unlikely to be external wall to wall in the 1700's

 

[STREET TRIPLE]

Thank you for your prompt replies.
Well somebody seems to have butchered the first floor layout making bedrooms, bathroom and a shower room from what was open plan.
The stud partition walls are really poor quality / shoddy. They flex under the slightest touch.
Previous owner has removed the shower and "converted" the room for storage... Our plan would be to knock this partition through to make one bedroom larger and more usable.
SWMBO has now come up with the idea of taking out all the walls and restoring the first floor layout. So hence the new walls being of a better construction, preferably block.

 

[endecotp]

Lightweight blocks do exist (e.g. celcon aircrete; search the forum for that to see what people think of them). You'll need to work out whether your floor joists are strong enough. Maybe someone more knowledgeable will comment on that.

It's also possible to make more sturdy stud walls, with thicker plasterboard, acoustic insulation, and plaster skim.

Is the building listed? This matters less if the existing partitions are modern, but it's an old building so.....

 

[STREET TRIPLE]

Just found out from the conservation officer that the partition walls were added to the building in 1988. They have no interest in them if we were to change the configuraton of the first floor.
So that's one hurdle.
Almost convinced the wife to accept the partitions with ply, plasterboard and kingspan insulation.
Hats off to the local planning office they are so helpful.

 

[endecotp]

ply, plasterboard and kingspan insulation.

What's the ply for?

 

[STREET TRIPLE]

What's the ply for?

After reading this forum. Using 12mm ply on the frame before plaster board and skim give partitions much more strength or solid feel. Still not as effective as block or brick, but the next best thing .
Sounds like an option to me

 

[John D v2.0]

Yes our architect specified ply behind plasterboard for the (only) stud wall, I think also to make fastening things easier.

 

[tony1851]

If it was originally open-plan, it's possible that they may have suggested ply to give some lateral stiffness to the structure?

 

[STREET TRIPLE]

Sorry , no one has specified anything. Just wanting an idea of what we can do and what would be best most cost effective .
Personally we do not like stud partitions and would prefer brick or block walls. Just unsure if this is possible on an upper floor .

 

[John D v2.0]

It's certainly possible but there's no guarantee the existing floors can support all the weight. If you use very thin light blocks then it's more likely to be alright.
A structural engineer will specify extra joists even for a normal stud wall, so there are considerations for any kind of wall.
Personally I don't see a massive problem with stud walls, if you want sound insulation you can build the wall slightly thicker and alternate the studs' positions so that no stud bridges from one wall to the other. You can also double board or back with ply.
Fundamentally no one here can tell you it's fine, so the safest answer is don't do anything. If you want to be really sure, and you're prepared to pay more, get an SE in.

 

[cjard]

Can you go directly on top of the floor boards

Not without being certain that the floor would take the weight. Not wise to have a wall that feels really solid because it's pressing down on your ribs, having successfully collapsed into the ground floor in the middle of the night, taking you with it.

Solid walls will also make the place respond more slowly to changes in temperature. Whether this is a good thing depends on your heating system

Personally, I think I'd go for double plasterboarded studs with staggered joints and acoustic wool inside the wall. If you can use 3x2 and stagger them so that the stud work doesnt connect both sides of the wall it should improve the noise attentuation. 12.5mm plasterboard is about a 3rd the price of 12mm ply, and easier to cut

There's a website called Robust Details that goes into some detail about modern wall construction methods for purposes of regs complaint sound attentuation, fire spread reduction, thermal performance improvements etc - last I knew the designs were jsut there to look at (AIUI you're supposed to licence them then you can show them to a building inspector and he accepts that you've purchased and installed a wall that complies to a ratified spec) but a quick glance just now seems to indicate you have to at least sign up

Reconfiguring internal walls might need the attention of the building control guys if it has structural, fire spread, acoustic (unless your property is detached) or drainage/sewage implications (moving toilets, creating bathrooms etc) - would be worth loading your plans into a topic in the Regs / Planning forum and asking if the proposed works are notifiable. Your local building control office at the council would also be able to advise