Car port being domesticated - treatment of bricks below damp course

[Draughtsman]

Car port being domesticated: old bathroom window blocked up, front door removed/side light blocked up, hole for previous outside tap filled in, meters moved etc, new aerated blocks up the right side also


One other wall has new aerated inner leaf, two other walls have stud/50mm insulation/plasterboard. I'm happy with these but need advice on the wall where the redundant front door was.

1. Is this wall suitable for wet plastering (with expamet added over the interfaces between different elements). I mean, it's got a window/redundant meter voids blocked, a lintel etc? I was thinking of putting a skim bead on at DPC level to render/skim upwards from there

2. The three lower brick courses I was going to wire wheel clean and apply a couple of coats of Silka Rapid DPM, then bring a floor membrane up to skim bead/damp course. This would be lost behind the skirting.

Any thoughts?

Dain

 

[noseall]

If you plaster or attempt to paint below DPC, it will bleed through unless you mitigate. We used polythene and battens to overcome this problem so that plaster material is not in contact with any sub-DPC masonry.

 

[Draughtsman]

If you plaster or attempt to paint below DPC, it will bleed through unless you mitigate. We used polythene and battens to overcome this problem so that plaster material is not in contact with any sub-DPC masonry.

I wasn't suggesting plastering below DPC.

I was going to seal the sub DPC brick courses with Silkabond Rapid DPM polyurethane based damp proof sealant, and a floor membrane will also come up the wall to DPC too.

I was going to put a skim bead on at DPC level, to render/skim upwards from there? I don't need to board or render below DPC beacause that will be behind the skirting anyway.

Unless you're suggesting that I batten the full height of the wall, and then board it out?

 

[noseall]

Unless you're suggesting that I batten the full height of the wall, and then board it out?

I'd trap some poly behind a pair of say 10-15mm horizontal battens (one along the floor another just below DPC) then dab the wall (decent size dabs) above the DPC and fix the board over the lot. Dabs get the uppermost part of the board and screw fixings at the bottom.
May be wise to include the odd short upright batten between the horizontal ones to prevent the board pulling in when fixing the skirts.

12mm ply rippings may be the best bet for battens, or you could batten the whole wall with say 18mm - 25mm battens if you wish and don't mind the added thickness.

 

[Draughtsman]

I'd trap some poly behind a pair of say 10-15mm horizontal battens (one along the floor another just below DPC) then dab the wall (decent size dabs) above the DPC and fix the board over the lot. Dabs get the uppermost part of the board and screw fixings at the bottom.
May be wise to include the odd short upright batten between the horizontal ones to prevent the board pulling in when fixing the skirts.

12mm ply rippings may be the best bet for battens, or you could batten the whole wall with say 18mm - 25mm battens if you wish and don't mind the added thickness.

I would wet plaster if a good job could be done with skim beads. Is a good job possible on that wall?

 

[noseall]

I would wet plaster

Why make life difficult. Bridging the problem area with plasterboard is the reason why we have them.

 

[Draughtsman]

I'd trap some poly behind a pair of say 10-15mm horizontal battens (one along the floor another just below DPC) then dab the wall (decent size dabs) above the DPC and fix the board over the lot. Dabs get the uppermost part of the board and screw fixings at the bottom.
May be wise to include the odd short upright batten between the horizontal ones to prevent the board pulling in when fixing the skirts.

12mm ply rippings may be the best bet for battens, or you could batten the whole wall with say 18mm - 25mm battens if you wish and don't mind the added thickness.

Would it be better to put the conc screws in the mortar courses instead of the red bricks?

 

[noseall]

Would it be better to put the conc screws in the mortar courses instead of the red bricks?

Depends how good the mortar is. If its good firm gear then it can be the better option as opposed to going into frog or perf' bricks, yes.