So, what you have at the minute is a permanent, unswitched live supply to the light fitting. What about the fan? Does that work at all? What have you done with the wires that go to the wall switch?
A sensible first step here would be to identify which two wires go to the switch on the wall. To do this, the first thing you'll need is a multimeter. You then need to turn off the power (use the main DP isolator on your consumer unit to be on the safe side), test that the supply is dead, and disconnect all wires at the fitting.
You should then (hopefully) find that there are a number of incoming sheathed cables, with each one stripped back to show individual black, red and bare copper (sheathed green or green/yellow) conductors. The latter is obviously the earth connection, and these all need green/yellow sleeving and connecting together in the earth terminal on the fan.
With the remaining conductors, get your multimeter and put the probes into the COM and V terminals, and set it to continuity check. Exactly how this is done will depend on your meter, but if you've got it right then the meter should beep/buzz when the ends of the two test probes are touched together.
Once your happy the meter is operating correctly, choose a pair of conductors that both come out the ceiling and into the fitting through the same outer sheath, i.e. they are both part of one cable. Put one meter probe onto each wire and get somebody to flick the wall switch on and off. If you've found the cable that goes to the switch drop then the meter will beep in sync with the flicking of the switch, and you should find that a very low resistance (1-2 ohms) is displayed on the LCD.
Be careful though, as the meter may still give you a positive reading if you go across one of the loop in/out supply cables due to a resistance path back through other lamps elsewhere on the same circuit. However, the resistance displayed by the meter would be expected to be much higher, and the beeping will not be in sync with the movement of the wall switch in that room.
So anyway, once you've found the switch drop, make sure you label it up as such so that you don't forget what's what! If the cable to the switch drop has a red and a black core, you should get a short length of red sleeving and place it over the black core. This indicates a switched live and will make identifying this cable a lot easier in the future.
To wire in the fitting, connect all black wires EXCEPT the one labelled up with the red sleeving in the previous step to the neutral terminal on the fan. All red wires INCLUDING the one to the switch drop need to go into the permanent, unswitched live terminal to feed the fan. The red sleeved black conductor from the switch drop should go to the terminal that feeds the light fitting.
Hopefully, you will now have a working ceiling fan/light. The above directions work on a couple of assumptions. One of these is that you have old (pre-harmonised) wiring colours. If, however, you have harmonised blue and brown conductors, simply substitute blue for black and brown for red.
Secondly, it is assumed that the fan is controlled by a pullcord on the fitting itself, and the wall switch is only intended to control the integrated light fitting.
Let us know how you get on, and remember to stay safe, if you're not confident in any part of the job or following the above directions then please call an electrician to carry out the work for you.
