Central Heating Only Coping With Heating 3 or 4 radiators

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I have a 12 radiator house serviced by a 22+ year-old Potterton Profile boiler. I have what seems to be a compound heating issue that two separate and quite competent (I believe) plumbers have been unable to diagnose or so far repair. Here is the sequence of events:

A couple of years ago, we noticed that the radiator heat output was reduced when the central heating was on. Not long after that, our CH pump failed, and our plumber replaced it with a Grundfos UPS3 15-50/65. This didn't solve the heat reduction issue though.

Over time, the problem worsened, and during this last winter the heating would only work with the hot water switched off. No output at all whenever the HW was on.

We went on holiday in March for two weeks and turned off the hot water / left the CH to come on periodically on a low setting. When we returned, the heating downstairs was almost non-existent. Our plumber looked at this, and by the time he returned a week later to try and fix it, there was no heat anywhere except 2 x towel rails located near the hot water cylinder. He thought some piping connected to or near the pump was sludged up, so he replaced it. He was correct, but replacing didn't fix it. He thought that wide-scale sludge was at the root of the problem, and he recommended power flushing. He doesn't do power flushing so we called in plumber B.

Plumber B power flushed the system, refilled it and fired everything up. No change. He thought there was some hardened sludge in a return pipe that the power flush hadn't shifted, and he managed to clear that manually. Still no change. He then thought that the Grundfos pump wasn't working correctly, so he fitted a new 15-60 pump (not Grundfos). Again, this made no difference. He then filled the system with Sentinel X400 descaler, and suggested leaving it for 3 weeks to see if there was any improvement.

The situation I now find myself in, is that if I leave all radiator valves open, I still only get heat to the towel rails. If I turn off the towel rails, I get heat flowing to the upstairs radiators. If I turn off those as well, I get heat to some of the downstairs radiators to varying degrees. If I then start turning off the hotter ones, then the heat does get to all of the others, with one or two where it is only just warm. The hot water is mainly ok, although it does now seem to take longer to heat up than it used to. As before, turning on the hot water kills off the central heating.

As far as the boiler is concerned, it only comes on for short periods - a minute or two every 5-10 minutes.

My only issue with the plumbers is that they are trying to solve the problem by trial and error, and this is becoming expensive. Especially as the next step suggested is to individually flush out each radiator. Ideally I'd like to see something tangible being diagnosed, and then tackling that. I accept we have an old boiler that could do with replacing, but a) no-one has suggested that this is the cause of this issue, and b) I don't want a new boiler to be impacted by a problem that lies elsewhere within the system.

Any views on this short message?
 
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The boiler heat exchanger could be the problem but its cast iron so shouldnt be as prone to sludge problems as the newer types.
Does it run continuously when heating the HW cylinder?. What is the make/model of the circulation pump?.
 
Just experience from my several homes over the years (I am not a plumber):- At 22 years I think you have had your moneys' worth. When moving in to current property three years ago, solicitor warned me that boiler was 17 years old. I wasn't bothered because I wanted the house anyway and exactly one year later it gave up the ghost. Some local guys with a good reputation flushed the system and did a new boiler (11 rads) for the princely sum of £2800 so I was quite pleased and mrs certainly was.
 
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If anybody warned me that my boiler was (exactly) 18 years old I would send them a solicitor's letter.
 
Answering a no. of questions here:

1. The boiler cuts out prematurely whether on HW or CH
2. The new pump is a BritTherm 15-60/130
3. Don't know if there is an auto-bypass or not - is that easy to establish?
4. I fully accept the need to upgrade the boiler - but the priority is to get the heating working, and neither plumber is pointing the finger there

Thanks for replies so far!
 
When you fire the boiler up next time feel the flow & return pipes at the boiler, if the flow is very hot after 30 to 45 secs and return cool then possibly a circulation problem for whatever reason causing the boiler to cut out when its setpoint temperature is reached but there could be numerous other reasons, maybe worth getting someone in who is familiar with these boilers to have a look.

A ABV (automatic bypass valve) looks like below, it may have a setting index on the side, its normally installed close to the boiler between the flow and return, if you locate it (if installed) check the index which may be on the side and check its reading, should be ~ 0.3 to 0.5, also feel on both sides while the boiler is firing, the return side should be cool/cold.

1684179703473.png
 
1. The boiler cuts out prematurely whether on HW or CH
I suppose somebody has checked the boiler controlstat is working properly (and turned well up)?
the heating would only work with the hot water switched off. No output at all whenever the HW was on.
What controls do you have? Do you mean HW on at the programmer?
 
Very simple first steps...

Is boiler producing enough heat?
Is that heat getting away from the boiler?
If abv is passing return will get instantly warm back to boiler.
 
We don't know what model boiler, not sure but it seems that they don't modulate but have a 3 stage burner, if so the min output is still quite high, the pressure loss through the Hx is quite small especially if a injector disc? is used but of courde could still be full of crap after 22 years despite power wash etc.
Apparently a fantastic boiler, shouldn't be too difficult for a competent person to figure out if there is a boiler problem.

The newer type A rated circ pumps now give very very useful info in trouble shooting flowrates as most (apart from Grundfos) display at least the power in watts from which the flowrate can easily be derived from the pump curves, personally, I wouldn't, and didn't, buy one without this.

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  • potterton profile 30,40,50,60,80 e.pdf
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Mainly, because of its reliability, it has never, ever, tripped on combustion failure, hasn't required a single replacement item apart from a few service items like oil burner nozzles and door gaskets.
 
How is the system piped- is it 22 from the boiler with short 15s to the rads or is it a manifold with 12 or 10mm to the rads? Pressurised or open vent?
Yes the guess and go diagnostic is rather expensive when it doesn't work.
There are various things you can do to try and localise the faults. Check the boiler as above, come back with pipework info.
 
I'm not sure if I was supposed to know this technical stuff when I originally posted, but a lot of it I don't (like pipe sizes and manifolds etc). But I can at least ask Plumber B about it when he's available. He's not working this week, and Plumber A isn't returning my calls. Some things I can answer though....

@Johntheo5 - thanks for the ABV diagram - I can't yet find one of those, but it might be hidden away somewhere. Also the charts, which I can show to one of the plumbers
I suppose somebody has checked the boiler controlstat is working properly (and turned well up)?
yes, it's on 4 (out of 5)
What controls do you have? Do you mean HW on at the programmer?
Yes, controlling HW from the Potterton programmer
Is boiler producing enough heat?
Is that heat getting away from the boiler?
I think so, on the basis I can heat the hot water, and separately, most of the rads. But there is still the frequent cutout issue, so perhaps not enough heat is getting away from the boiler.
How is the system piped- is it 22 from the boiler with short 15s to the rads or is it a manifold with 12 or 10mm to the rads? Pressurised or open vent?
Pretty sure it's open vent, as there is an auto-vent valve on a vertical pipe alongside the water cylinder.

The Sentinel x400 has been in the system for five days now, and no real improvements seen. Do I just need to wait longer? Also, the next step as suggested by the plumber is to flush out the rads individually. Does that make sense, given that most of them heat up ok if I turn off enough of the others? (There's one that only gets lukewarm.)

Thanks again for responses so far
 
What is the boiler size, is it a 30 40,50,60 or 80E, it will be labelled somewhere.
 

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